Some of you may remember this quilt was started more than a year ago, intended as a gift for a very special couple, my husband’s big brother and his wife, whom we love and respect enormously and my children adore, for their anniversary in June.
…finished at long last…
Then I got involved in the BOM quilt and this got put away. The pattern for the quilt is ‘The Big Apple’ from the Fons and Porters’ Love of Quilting mag July-August 2012 issue. I used fabric from my stash for the piecing, the cambric backing was bought in the local market. The apple core borders ( two deep) have been quilted with inspiration from Thread Head. I also studied the apple quilting tutorial by Lori Kennedy at the Inbox Jaunt. I had a problem keeping the tension balanced and my movement smooth!
Echo quilting on the centre cores
Each core took me upwards of half an hour to quilt, so I echo quilted the apple cores in the centre! The white portion (added to make up the quilt length when I ran out of fabric) was more unforgiving as mistakes glared at you from a bright background.
I used a cardboard template to draw the apples
Leaves and spirals were added free hand as fillers. There are some half eaten apples and others rotten to the core!
I quilted it in light grey, but then ran out of thread. So came up the orange bands…
In retrospect, I think the orange quilting really made the quilt special!
…which made this my dare-to-wear-black quilt! In a much-aired Indian television commercial for an anti-dandruff shampoo, one famous Boolywood actor dares another to wear black, and thus prove he has no dandruff! As a beginner free motion quilter, I felt something like the actor who was dared to take up the challenge…
i had appliqued a few apple cores on the white portion to add an element of interest to the proceedings!
At the end of the exercise, I feel much more confident about FMQ, as I could do it in my HQV Topaz 20 machine’s auto mode, though at the lowest speed!
Learning to enjoy Free motion quilting!
For the binding I used shirting fabric, which kind of tied up everything together, I thought. For a change, the entire binding was attached and sewn down by machine.
Worthy gift for a special couple, would you say?
A close up of the binding done entirely by machine.
Learnings from this quilt: 1. I got to practise curved piecing. 2. I tried to echo quilt in free motion with very ugly results. I need more practice here. 3. While quilting the apples, at several places, I have tension issues in my quilting, specifically too high tension at the back. I think it is because I was pulling at the fabric. However, at the end of the exercise, I feel much more confident about FMQ, as I could do it in my HQV Topaz 20 machine’s auto mode, though at the lowest speed! A set speed also gave much neater results. 4. I regretted not pulling up the bobbin thread when starting off the quilting, for example after a thread breakage. When I didn’t do that, the stray thread ends got caught up in knots and caused uneven stitches. 5. FMQ is fun and I think I am going to love it! So, I leave you to look at these pics while I decide which of my UFOs I am going to tackle next! May all those apples keep the doctors away from their lives … and yours too!
I did tell you my quilt won the first prize in the Husqvarna Viking India, Pfaff India, Handi Quilter India Quilt Competition 2015? I also promised to share with you the story and the making of this quilt! So here it is, my quilt “Seasons in the Sun” !
Seasons in the Sun
The Facts and Figures
Theme of the Competition : The Joy of Flowers
Original Design based on a personal photograph, no copyright issues.
Size – 36.5 x 50.5 ( after blocking).
Fabric Used – Cotton fabric `Fossil Fern’ by Benartex and poplin solids by Umaid Mills, India ( entirely from my stash).
Stabilizers – Heat n Bond Red and Pink, local fabric fusing single sided as well as double sided.
Polyester batting 150 gsm
Threads – Cotton, invisible nylon, polyester blend and rayon silk.
Machine Used – Husqvarna Viking Topaz 20
Free motion quilting mainly; built-in HQV auto sensor used for other quilting ( on large appliqué pieces)
Techniques – Regular piecing, foundation piecing, raw edge appliqué and fabric fusing (with paper backed stabilizer), painting using Derwent Inktense pencils.
The Story of the Quilt – The Quilt that Wouldn’t Not Be!
When I first read the theme for the Competition, my reaction was, “Oh, no!” I have painted a lot, but flowers, landscapes and still life only bore me. If it was to be the joy of flowers, the only thing that came to mind was this beloved photograph, faded beyond recognition and the negative lost! I made every excuse not to make it. I had no idea how to do an art quilt. I prefer piecing and for the life of me how was I going to piece this? If I had to appliqué, I like only needle turn hand appliqué! Raw edge appliqué is really lazy, isn’t it? And most importantly, where did I have the time? So I propped it up on the table in the spare room and surfed the Internet for ideas for over two months.
Seasons in the Sun – the original photograph that inspired the quilt
I found hundreds of flower photographs and dozens of exquisitely crafted flower quilts; sadly, none of them called out to me to make anything like them! I obsessed with This Quilt, dreamt of how it would look! I lay awake drawing up and rejecting various techniques for constructing it. Finally, I knew that I had no option but to venture on what was likely to be a disaster…and started studying portrait quilts.
Seasons in the Sun
This photograph transports me back almost thirty years. It was our first car, a second hand Maruti 800, and we were on our first trip to the enchanting Simla Hills with our almost–four year old son. It was in the times when vacations meant a holiday with your grandparents or cousins or even a pilgrimage. The economical car had just been around for a couple of years; The Great Indian Tourist was yet unborn and the Himalayas were largely untouched by any outsiders but pilgrims.
We stopped for the night at almost every other turn of the road, spending the day exploring the area or just lazing around in our hotel, having dinner under the Milky Way so bright that you could almost reach out and touch the stars. Small settlements – Parwanoo, Kasauli, Barog, Kiarighat, Chail – it took us five days to get to Simla from Chandigarh, a distance of just over a hundred kilometres! We did not care for crowded Simla and travelled further up North to Kufri, Naldera, Narkanda. And then to Mashobra on our way to Wild Flower Hall, an old colonial style palace.
This picture is from Wikipedia of the building of Wild Flower Hall, which got totally burnt down later in 1993; a five star hotel has come up in its stead
There had been flowers in every crevice in the rocks everywhere we went, but in Mashobra the flowers went wild! The hills were covered with white, yellow and lavender. We stopped on the roadside, laughing for no reason but the joy of being alive! Our son ran up the hillside and as he looked down at us, squinting in the bright sunlight, this photograph was taken.
We have been back many times, but strangely, this is the only trip that is etched in my mind in every detail. So this picture brings back to me the heady smell of pine, the singing of the wind as it flows through the thickly forested slopes, woodroses and pine cones on the slippery pine needle covered ground. But mainly it is the flowers…flowers covering every inch of the ground…flowers dancing in the scented mountain breeze…
Life caught up with us, bringing us many trials and much sorrow, but this picture never fails to raise hope and a smile in my heart, just like all those wild flowers daring to bloom against all odds. A feeling of exhilaration, of the pure joy of flowers…
I dedicate this quilt to our very special daughter, Tana, who has bravely and inspirationally borne much pain and disability and to whom I have made this promise:
I also dedicate it to Rushu, the best brother in the world, the little boy in this quilt, who has stood by her at every step of the way. I have made a mother’s promise to him also – to make the head (slightly flattened from the top) of this portrait okay. Now that we are though with the competition, I shall get around to doing that.
This may not be the quilt I am most proud of, but I have no doubt it will be the quilt I shall love the most, as I grow old and dream of seasons in the sun …
The Preparation
I scanned the photograph and increased size to 36” x 45” approximately. Printed 32 pages through an Excel file and spread them on the dining table to make the template for the quilt. We ate on the sofa for almost two months, except the few times when we had guests and grumbling, I had to shift my stuff to the bed in the guest room.
The print out of the enlarged image laid out on the table.
Confusion, Deliberations and Decisions
This done, I wracked my brains on how to go about the actual piecing/ applique.
As you can see the bottom half of the quilt required a great deal of work and the top half was open expanse. I originally planned to do the boy’s portrait first on a blue background, then just cut up the selection of green and browns (from 12 different delicious fat quarters) into strips, place them randomly to denote the wild riot of foliage and do a fine stippling to hold them in place. The flowers and trees etc would come up last.
This did not appeal to me. I wanted a `quilty’ quilt. Otherwise I would paint a picture, wouldn’t I? I am more of a ‘piecer’ and raw edge applique did not seem like real quilting to me. These were mere excuses, I think! The real reasons were – my brain understands order better than chaos (those stems and flowers were a senseless riot!). Most of the selected fabric in my stash was in the form of fat quarters. It would be easier to handle reasonable sized blocks. This meant, roughly, that I would get the background ready first, make the portrait separately and applique it on top of the background and then add flowers and stems as necessary.
For the background, I decided to adapt a technique taught by Wendy Saclier in a workshop for crazy quilting published in ‘Quiltskills – Workshops from the Quilters’ Guild, Australia’ by The Patchwork Place. I would piece the quilt in the form of a grid of 5” squares set on point. The quilt would have a 7 x 5 grid plus the setting triangles; the next step was to mark the grid. I had to increase the width of the picture to accommodate the full squares.
Another creative decision ( sounds very important, doesn’t it?) was to change the colour of the flowers to yellow from white. The colour of the shirt which was gold, blue and white would then have red instead of the yellow, and the trousers blue instead of yellow!
Laying the Foundation
I cut foundation pieces in green fabric started the piecing from the left bottom corner. I was not following the picture exactly, just a sense of the direction in which the plants are leaning, the foliage clearing up and the colours lightening as you move from left to the right. I also used larger pieces of fabric towards the top and to the right, to emphasize the feeling of ‘openness’. An additional problem was that the stems were not only vertical, but horizontal and slanting too. The foundation piecing was basically, therefore, improvised, just lightly marking the strip direction on fabric with a pencil.
Improvised foundation piecing on the fabric squares for the foliage
Much as I loved this challenge and the results, each block took ages to grow.
Beautiful, but the criss crossing stems took ages to piece .
Scaling the Skies
Skipped to the sky after seven days and only one corner completed in the desire to see the quilt come up faster.
The picture had to be extended to the right to accomadate the size of the squares
I posterized the picture ( Used Microsoft Office Paint to reduce the number of colours), took an A4 sized print out and used that as a guide for colours, which were not too clear in the enlarged poster. This was a trick I picked up from Marilyn Lee, master art quilter, who is generous enough to hold free classes on Facebook. Check out her `Classy Quilts : The Art of the Art Quilt’ page. I only wish I had found her a bit earlier than I did.
The colours were all wrong in the enlarged picture. Something needed to be done!The posterized A4 size print out used as a guide…
Half the top plus pieced in a couple of hours!
The Flower Strewn Hills
Back to the lighter foliage on the right bottom corner. Much faster and piecing part of top almost done.
The `distant’ flower covered hills in yellow. The details would be brought out by the quilting
Then moved to the left, to start the work on the background this side.
Running out of fabric, had to paint fabric for a few squares on the left.
Adding more foliage…
The picture start taking shape…
Left the centre panel, where the boy is half crouching, un`blocked’. Top background done, time to paint … er…appliqué on it.
Stick ‘n Sew
I used a combination of fabric fusing and sewable stabilizer to appliqué. The trees in the background came up first. I used the fern stitch on my machine to sew them to the background, to mimic the look of pine needles. By the time this quilt was completed, the `unsewable’ fusing on the darker fabric had started peeling off and had to be sewn back in place. The greenery on the distant hillside on the right came off altogether, and I had to paint and quilt in that area!
Raising the trees!
Back it Up!
Meanwhile, we had only 3 weeks left for the deadline. So I made the backing, before starting on further applique. The amount of applique would depend on how much time I had at hand! The backing used the only matching yardage in my stash. I wanted to emphasize the `slope’ hence added a solid to separate the two main fabrics. I discovered that the slope had been cut in the wrong direction, but I did not have fabric to re- do it and eventually, it really did not matter!
The backing …
The Boy
I cut and sewed a piece of denim from my old jeans for the trousers in place on the background. The boy’s torso was built up separately on white fabric, to be joined to the main quilt top through quilting.
Finally seems to be getting somewhere! The trees are in place; the figure is ready to be built up.
Here is a close up of the shirt completed.
The shirt – I marked out the colour separation and cut out the paper template torso into pieces. Traced these on to Heat n Bond backed fabric of matching colour. Placed it on shirt outline, fused and stitched.
The Joy (?!?) of Flowers
Now to start on the dozens and dozens of flowers and stems…Once the trees were in place, I cut out dozens of flowers and stems of all lengths and widths from 1/8″ to 1/3″ approximately. I was first numbering them, following the template poster, but very soon realized the futility of it and gave that up!
Initially, the stems and leaves were labelled with corresponding numbers on the giant printed poster. After covering 10 square inches and 40 stems, I gave up.
I used a zigzag stitch for most of the appliqué, as it best resembled the movement of a pencil across paper, when ‘shading’. To emphasize a 3-D effect, I sewed the stems down with invisible thread on one side and a contrast colour thread on the other. The flowers were also stitched down at the edges with invisible thread, the separation of petals was done with yellow rayon thread later.
Placing the flowers
Halfway through, I made the cardinal error of adding a stabilizer to the top to facilitate the appliqué. This would prove really troublesome when quilting.
My daughter supervises the proceedings
Yet more flowers and stems from fabric which had paper backed adhesive attached to it, placed and ironed on the top…
The flowers and stems slanting to the right…
Background done, now for the quilting and final applique work
I left only the uppermost layer of flowers and the boy’s arms and head undone. They would be sewed / attached during and after the quilting. Finally ready to layer the top with the batting and backing and start quilting!
When the Quilting Gets Tough…
The quilting was tough literally and figuratively. The various layers of one sided interfacing, that I had used as stabiliser, made the top stiff and the needle gummed up. To add to my misery, I had spray basted the sandwich! Till I was forced to peel off the top and cut away the layer of stabilizer where I could. It was so difficult to sew in some parts that at one stage, I actually flung the quilt on the floor in despair. I had tiny holes in the fabric, especially where I was using invisible thread. ( Spraying them with water removed those later, but right then they were really scary). I changed to a smaller sized needle and that seemed to work better. I used a close zigzag stitch / satin stitch in most places in the foliage area to quilt stems which would hold the layers together. For the sky, I used a regular straight stitch and zigzag stitch.
Progressing slowly…
I considered attaching the orange flower centres with applique, but scrapped the idea, because they would stand out in strong contrast, detracting from the whole picture. Inktense pencils were used instead. I also used them to add depth and greenery to the distant hillside, as the adhesive had come off the raw edge applique done with non sewable Heat n Bond. The arms were similarly shaded, I did not have fabric the right colour.
Burying the threads took a full day as I used 3 blues, 5 greens and 4 yellows for the quilting.
Head-Aches!
I was running out of time and the head had been giving me several problems right from the beginning. I had posterized the face to obtain a clear demarcation of colour to help in the patchwork. The eye portion stood out like two black holes against a pink face! I made up and scrapped two faces and the arms as they were too pink and looked nothing like my son. Now I scanned several photographs to get the right colours.
I enlarged and studied several photos to get the face and colouring right.
I finally found four fabrics in my stash which I could use for the face; I worked directly from the original photo instead of the print out. Nevertheless, whatever I did, the colour of the lips posed a problem. I even considered leaving the face blank, but it would not work with so many details in the other areas. I attached the cut out for the face; got the eyes, eyebrows, forehead, cheeks, nose, ears, neck and the neckline of the t-shirt ready separately to be built on it. The lips would be done with Inktense pencils!
Bind it Up!
Leaving things where they were, I did the binding now; seven different fabrics in greens and browns were used for the ‘land’ area and three blues for the ‘sky’ area. It was machined from the front and hand sewn at the back. This was the most relaxing part of the entire quilt making.
Love the binding!
Binding machined from the front and hand-sewn on the back.I am verrry proud of the binding;!
Let’s Face It!
I finally tried to sew the face parts, but the face area was too stiff to be stitched on. I had no choice but to rip it off. In the process of removing the face, I was ready to burst into tears as I made a cut in the backing fabric!. That is when I had the brilliant idea of attaching a ‘head’ to the back, to cover up the cut! I did the face anew, again using the original picture as the guide. I built it on freezer paper, which could be peeled and ripped off after stitching. This seemed to me much more satisfactory than using adhesive or stabilizer. I wish I had taken photographs but I was hard pressed for time! As mentioned earlier, I had only 4 fabrics in the correct skin tones so used Derwent Inktense pencils to give the face a more realistic look and merge the areas where two fabrics met. The eyebrows, eyes and neck had to be fused as I could not appliqué the tiny bits. (I have painted under them in case they decide to fall off). The completed face was attached to the quilt top from the edges.
The Finishing Line
When I stepped back to look at the quilt, there were areas which needed a touch or two, for which the Inktense came in use again. I skipped the sleeve as this will be framed under glass to protect it from the dust in this part of the world.
Cleaning up of the quilt for threads and blocking it on a mattress with a sheet on top of the dining table. I drew lines on the sheet and used a spray bottle to spray the quilt liberally with water; stretched it with pins at a distance of about 2″ on the lines and left it overnight. The rebellious areas had to be steamed into obedience with a steam iron held about an inch above the top.
Blocking the quilt with pins on a mattress
Picture This!
Finally, the photography session. Including one of my photographer, who climbed a playground slide to snap a pic from high ground.
Photographing the photographer as he tried to get a bird’s eye view of the quilt…
Here are all the pictures taken by the professional photographer. If you open these in a separate window, you should be able to see all the details.
Do let me know if you have any questions on the techniques and methods!
Rushu and me – posing with the quilt!Close Up Trees – The colours are not quite right in the professionally taken pics!A close up of the flowers against the skylineMy personal favourite area of the quilt……and the most beloved area of my quilt!The Joy of FlowersThe head hides secrets!Seasons in the Sun – The Original and The Copy
End of story: I repeat myself. Not the most technically perfect quilt I have made, but I love it!
Am I excited and relieved at the same time, or what, to present the sixteenth and final block of the DreamcatcherRound the Year Quilt !?! This 24-spoke Mariner’s Compass is foundation paper pieced and is, like the other blocks of this Block of the Month quilt, drafted as a 15″ (finished) circle set in an 18″ (finished) square. I learnt to draft this block from a workshop by Adina Sullivan, “Mastering the Maddening Mariner” in “Quiltskills – Workshops from The Quilters’ Guild Australia” (published by The Patchwork Place, 1998). Adina has the most fabulous quilts based on the Mariner’s Compass and I had been gathering the courage to attempt these since the last six years or so, when I bought this book. You may recall that Southward Bound was also drafted using the method taught by Adina. She uses the English paper piecing method to construct her blocks, mine is completely machine pieced!
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
I used Quilt Assistant, a great free quilt design software for designing the block. The pattern instructions and paper piecing templates can be downloaded in PDF format from the links at the end of this post.
Fabric Requirement
Fabric Code for Mariner24
This block uses 2 shades of blue and 4 contrasting colours in the yellow-gold-light orange spectrum for the Compass, set in a third shade of blue for the background.
Trivia – This block contains 269 pieces! But don’t worry, we will be working with strips, so that you need not worry about cutting dozens of pieces.
Fabric Code
Colour
Fabric Required
Cutting Instructions
1
Pale Blue
19″ square*
2
Medium Blue
6″ WOF
Cut 3 strips WOF 2″ wide
2 squares 4.5″
Cut along both diagonals to get 8 QSTs
3
Deep Blue
6″ WOF
Cut 3 strips WOF 2″ wide
4
Deep Orange
3″ x 30″
5
Gold
3″ x 30″
6
Yellow
3.25″ x 30″
Cut into strips 2″ x 30″
1.25″ x 30″
7
Light Orange
3″ x 24″
*I have given a template for joining the background by piecing, but for this block I suggest appliqueing the compass on a square.
Do remember to spray starch and press your fabric before cutting it. I do not have access to spray starch, so I make my own by adding two capfuls of the locally available liquid fabric stiffener (sold by the name of Revive) to 100ml of water in a spray bottle.
Your best friend when piecing – spray starch!
Printing Instructions
Print the Templates File at 100% / actual size in portrait mode. Cut out the templates. I suggest you ignore the background template AG( in two parts), as we will be appliqueing the compass on a background square. It may prove useful for marking the circle on the background fabric.
Print the Instructions File, which includes the Fabric Requirement chart and Master Template, and keep at hand for piecing and assembly.
Step by Step Piecing Instructions
If you are attempting a block from this quilt for the first time, or even if you have not foundation paper pieced for a while, you may like to see this blogpost for decoding the paper piecing patterns for this BOM and this one, which reminds you of certain do’s and don’ts for paper piecing these blocks. If you are new to paper piecing itself, there are several great tutes online on the subject!
Outer Ring
First we piece the spokes of the outer ring (Templates A to X), using (majorly) the chain strip piecing method, that we have used for several earlier blocks. To avoid confusion and efficient use of fabric, the following order of piecing is suggested. We start with templates A to F and fabric strips which will come at piece#1 and piece#2 ( Fabric Codes#4 and #3 respectively). The following photos will explain how we chain piece the templates to the strip pair.
Align the edges of strips for A1 (Fabric#4 and Fabric #3) and place the template A ready for the first seam.Template B will be aligned just below template A, leaving some space in between the two.This shows Templates A to F … first set of seams done and strip for piece#2 pressed open.Cut to separate the templates…Trim the excess fabric up to paper template. Preserve the trimmings!Fold back the paper template on seam line and trim the seam to 1/4″Now fold the paper template at seam line between piece#2 and piece#3. Trim the fabric (Strip#2) 1/4″ beyond this seam line.How templates A to F will look after the first two pieces are in place……All these trimmings will be used…
We are now ready to add the strip which will come in at Piece#3 (Fabric Code#2).
Chain piece the templates to strip for piece #3 and press open before cutting apart.Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″ and the fabric on piece#3 to 1/4″ beyond seam line between piece#3 and piece#4
We are ready to add piece #4, for which we can use the trimmings from before! Similarly, piece templates G to L up to piece#4, i.e G1 to G4, H1 to H4…L1 to L4. Piece templates M to R up to piece#4, i.e M1 to M4, N1 to N4…R1 to R4.Piece templates S and T up to piece#4 Piece templates U and V up to piece#4 Piece templates W and X up to piece#4 Now, all our templates for the outer ring our pieced up to Piece#4.
Once we have reached this stage, order of piecing is not important. We are ready to add Piece#5 to all these templates, for which we can use the trimmings from Piece#2. Similarly, trimmings from piece#3 can be used for piece#6. This upcoming pic shows the spoke templates pieced till piece#6.
Templates A to X pieced up to Piece#6…
Here comes the strip which will occupy space at piece#7.
Piece#7 coming up.
You will see that the broader portion of the templates are overlapping. The important thing is to maintain about 1/2″ distance between the seam you are sewing on one template and the next. Time for a break and a little bit of fun! ALWAYS, remember to press open the strip you have sewn before cutting apart the templates. Also trim the seams, and the fabric just sewn to 1/4″ inch or so, beyond the upcoming seam line. I used scraps for pieces #8, 9 and 10, where I could. When I ran out of scraps, I used strips. Here is the final strip coming up!
Final strip sewn and pressed open, ready to be trimmed!
Trim and put them aside, ready for assembly.
Inner Circle Compass
To piece the inner circle compass, piece as follows: Piece Y, Z, AA and AB. Piece AC, AD, AE and AF Use QSTs from Fabric#2 at piece#1 in all these templates.
The inner circle templates pieced. ( I have added an additional 1/4″ beyond the outer trim line, as I am going to try out something new for joining this to the ring.)
Assembly Instructions
Use the Master Template given in the Instructions File as a guide for assembly.
Outer Ring
I suggest you make piles of the templates as follows: A-B-C ; D-E-F; G-H-I; J-K-L; M-N-O and P-Q-R. Put aside S-T-U-V-W-X
Templates in piles…
To join the templates, pin them first at the outer, broader edge. I like to insert vertical pins, matching the seams, before pinning on the seam line.
Vertical pins where seams will meet.Horizontal pins on seam line; the vertical pins are now being removed.
This results in perfectly matched seams and corners!
Perfecto!
And so we sew the piles as follows ABC, DEF, GHI, JKL, MNO, PQR. Now bring on the pile S-T..X and add these, following the master template.
Work with the Master Template! Do not let the mirror image confuse you.
So you have 6 sets of partly assembled templates as follows: ABCS, DEFT, GHIU, JKLV, MNOX and PQRW. Remove the paper from the seams. You may like to press the seams open; I like to press them in one direction; all of them then must be pressed either clockwise or anti-clockwise. I also removed the paper from the inner templates, leaving it intact only at the circumference and inner edge. Now sew these together.
The ‘ring’ from the back…… and from the front!
Inner Circle Assembly
Assemble the inner circle in quarters ……then in halves. Again, I like to press the seams in one direction. and finally the full circle. I stitch first from one edge to the centre and reverse. Break thread, and stitch from the other edge to the centre. I then rip open a bit of the crossover seam at the centre to give the seams a ‘twirl’.
Final Assembly
I have not assembled the final block as of now. But this is how I suggest it be done: Join the ring to the square using your favourite method. Finally, appliqué the centre circle. Another look at the block and what inspired it.
The Inspiration and the Block!
I hope you will love making this block! I assure you the result is well worth the effort. Take it easy, enjoy every seam and then savour all the oohs and aahs your work receives! I have also, more or less, finalised the layout I am going to use for these blocks. I shall share it with you soon.
This is where you download the instructions and templates for the block. You would need Adobe Reader ( download for free online) to be able to read these PDF files.
1.BLOCK16 MARINER24 Instructions
2.BLOCK16 MARINER24 Paper Piecing Templates
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
Round the Year Quilt Block 16 may take some more time to be posted, as my daughter was hospitalized and we have returned home just today! I am more than half way through the block, but I do not know when I shall be able to work on it…
Meanwhile, there is also some good news on my front ! I had made a wall quilt for the Husqvarna Viking India- Pfaff quilt challenge 2015 and… I won the first prize!
Here is a peek into my quilt when it was under construction, I will share with you all the pictures in a separate blogpost! You could, of course, visit my Patchwork of My Life page on facebook and see the pictures there.
Again, I am really sorry for the delay, but I hope you will understand!
The Winding Ways Wheel , Block 15 of the Round the Year Quilt
Can you believe this is the last but one block the DreamcatcherRound the Year Block of the Month Quilt? I was in two minds whether to include this beautiful traditional pieced block in this quilt, where all the other blocks are majorly paper pieced. You decided it for me and I couldn’t be happier!
I first made up this block almost 4 years ago, when I was quite new to quilting, using the winding ways block. I drafted it using this great tutorial by Kathy Somers. Partly pieced by hand and partly by machine, it finished at 4.5″ including the seams! I plan to include it in the next major project I embark on, a quilt made with miniature 4″ blocks including, perhaps, a few Dear Jane and Nearly Insane quilt blocks and some of my very own.
To get back to Block Fifteen, it finishes at 18.5″ square with the seam allowances. The inset circle is 15″ plus 1/2″ seam allowance. I have drafted this on free quilt design software Quilt Assistant, which I have used to draft all the blocks of this quilt!
The block looks difficult, but the curves are really gentle and if you cut accurately, and pin carefully, it is a breeze to piece!
Fabric Requirement
Winding Ways Wheel – Fabric Code and Colour Pattern
This block will be appliquéd to the background square. You will need a 19″ square in Fabric#1 .
Printing Instructions
1. Print the Instructions File and Templates File on A4 size paper with your printer settings on 100% or Actual Size in portrait mode. I used freezer paper to print the templates. I just press it on the fabric and cut around it!
To print on freezer paper, cut A4 size freezer paper and lightly iron the edges on to regular printer paper. Print as usual on freezer paper side . Use a paper knife to separate.
Prepare the freezer paper for printing by pressing the edges lightly on regular printing paper.
2. Cut the templates A, B and C . I cut 2 sets of the templates to make the fabric cutting faster. You could also print them on ordinary paper, paste on stiff card and cut out to make reusable templates.
Cutting and Piecing Instructions
Please starch your fabric before cutting, to ensure accuracy and crispness in your block.
As you cut the fabric, use the alignment markers on the templates to mark the centre of each side of the fabric pieces. I have made notches as markers. I also marked the corners with a pencil on each of the pieces. I learnt the hard way that you save a lot of heartburn by taking time at this stage.
Follow the colour diagram and arrange all the fabric pieces where you do not need to disturb them.
The block will be pieced in different sections, numbered 1 to 7 here, as shown here and then assembled. Please follow pressing instructions, they are very important in this block! Trust me, I have made a whole quilt with these blocks.
Piecing and assembly diagram
Referring to the colour pattern, align the curved side of B on top of concave side of A, for all sets of A and B. Pin at the centre notch. I pinned them with the pin on the fabric and had to repin with the pin sticking out before sewing!
Do not pin like this! The pin should face the other way, stick out!
When piecing, you need only two pins. Match the blunt ends of the two pieces one at the corner where you begin, pin. The other pin is at the centre notch.
You need only two pins…
Once you are past the centre notch, use a pair of small forceps/ tweezers to gently align the fabric and finish the curve.
Use a pair of tweezers to ease fabric and match corners neatly
Piece all A-B sets. Press seam towards B.
Press seams towards B
Add piece C to one set of A-B in each of the sections # 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7. Place C on top, match notches, pin. The other pin aligns the corner points at the narrow end, where we begin the seam.
Two pins – one at narrow end and other at centre notch.
Press seam towards A.
Do not skip on the pressing after each stage, if you want a pretty block.
Sew other set of AB from the section to corresponding ABC just sewn. Again, begin with narrow end of C on top. You will have to change your machine needle settings; in my machine, ¼” seam is at needle setting 1.8, so I shift it to -1.8 when doing this step. The seam will be on the left and fabric on the right as you face the machine!
I adjusted my needle position, so that the 1/4″ seam is on the left and the fabric on the right! On my Husqvarna VIking Topaz 20, this position is -1.8
Again, press the seam towards A.
Getting there! Note the seams…
Section#3 has just two C pieces. Reduce seam length, fix the seam at both ends. Join them at the narrow end and finger press open the seam.
Use a smaller stitch length, fix the thread ends. Finger press open.
Join the corner B pieces to Sections#6 and #7 and press seam open.
Sections #6 and # 7 – press the seam open after joining corner pieces
All our sections are pieced!
Assembly Instructions
First we assemble the centre square. (This is the basic winding ways block!) This is the crucial step which will determine the beauty of the block.
Carefully pin Section 3 centre seam to centre of Section 1.
Do not be in a hurry here!
Next, match the notch on the long side of C to notch on A and pin. Start sewing from centre outwards on one side, then the other. This way you can check if your centre points are matched or not!
Press seams toward A, away from the narrow section 3.
Similarly pin Section#2 to just assembled Section#1-3 and sew. Again press seam away from Section#3.
Not perfect . I ripped a few cms and re-did it!
Ready for final assembly…
Now we sew Section#4 and #5 to centre square 123. Match notches and corresponding seams and pin.
The seams are REALLY bulky and you may need to use a lot of maneuvering to get them right!
Those seams are nasty!
Sew. Press seams open.
I like that!
We are on the last step already! AS usual, match all intersecting seams and notches and join sections#6 and #7 to 12345. Press seams open.
Neat?
I am quite happy with my block!
All that remains is to appliqué it to the 19″ background square and trim it to 18.5″. I am planning to use the freezer paper method to do so. What is your favourite method to appliqué a circle to a square?
I would love to see the blocks you come up with – on my Facebook page.
The pretty, pretty Winding Ways Wheel Block!
The sixteenth and last block will be up on May 1st! Like I told you, my mind is already on a fast forward mode, planning what is coming up next – perhaps, to a quilt with miniature blocks?! I do hope I will have the patience to finish this Round the Year quilt before that!
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
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