Dahlia – “Dreamcatcher Dusk Round The Year” Block of the Month Quilt – Block One

 Here it is finally – the pattern for the Dahlia Block, with complete instructions for piecing!

Please note that the downloadable patterns and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

This traditional “DAHLIA” block is the first in the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt; it is paper foundation pieced . We are chain piecing strips to construct the block.

Here are the instructions for piecing the Dahlia.

Finished Block size: 18″ square with 15″ inset circle



Fabric Requirementgiven for strip piecing technique. You need more fabric ( an extra strip of each of fabric 2,3, 4,5 and 7 ) if you wish to piece the block in the regular way.

Colour Code  Quantity
Blue 2  2 strips 2.5” x 20”
3  2 strips 2.5” x 20”
4  2 strips 2.5” x 20”
7  1 strip 3.5” x 20”
Yellow 5 1 strip 3.5” x20
1 strip 2” x 20”
2 squares 3.5” x 3.5”
Orange 6  1 strip 2” x 20”2 squares 3.5” x 3.5”
Grey (for square 1  18.5” square
  1. Take print outs of the DAHLIA TEMPLATE PDF File at 100% size ( ‘no scaling’ / `Portrait’ mode setting of printer). You have the following templates:
  • 16 arc templates numbered A to P for piecing the outer circle (ring).
  • 2 templates Q and R for the inner circle
  • Template S in 2 pieces S1 and S2 for one quarter of the outside square.

2.  This Master template  shows how the paper pieced sub-blocks shall be assembled. You can print it from the Instructions file and  try out your own colour schemes; use colour pencils! .  


  1. Piece arc templates A to H
  2. Piece arc templates I to P
  3. Piece the centre halves Q and R.
  4. Moving anti-clockwise from 3 o’clock, join the arcs in adjoining pairs as follows-
  5. H to P, A to I, B to J and so on
  6. Join HP to AI and BJ to CK. Next join HPAI to BJCK to get the top half of the flower
  7. Similarly, join adjoining pairs to get the bottom half of the flower DLEMFNGO
  8. Join the centre top Q to HPAIBJCK and similarly construct the lower half of the Dahlia.
  9. The background – Glue together the two parts of template S along the marked edge. Use the following diagram to cut 4 of these – S, T, U and V from the background fabric

  10. Join S and T to make the top half and U and V to make the bottom half
  11. Set the circle halves into the background fabric.
  12. Join the halves to make the square block!

I plan to set the circles on to the background fabric only once all of them are ready. 

Piecing Instructions

As I mentioned, we use the strip foundation piecing technique to (chain)piece the block.

1. Cut the strips as recommended. Colour code the strips – mark them with a post-it note! Whenever I don’t do that, I end up using the wrong fabric.
For cutting the strips, it is highly recommended ( in fact, essential!) that you pre-starch the fabric. If you do not have access to a readymade spray starch, a good home made option is mixing a liquid stiffener like Revive ( 2capfuls in 100ml) with water in a spray bottle.

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2.    Cut out all the templates roughly – accuracy not required at this stage.

3.  Make 4 piles : A to H, I to P, Q to R, and S1-S2

4. We first piece A to H. (These are pieced from the centre outwards to the circumference.)

  • Line up the strips top to bottom needed for these in order.
  • Yellow Colour code 5- 2″ strip
  • Blue Code 4 – 2.5″ strip
  • Blue code 3 – 2.5″ strip
  • Blue Code 2- 2.5″ strip
  • Yellow Code 5 – 3.5″ strip

5.   Now we are ready to sew. Lower the stitch length ( 1.5 should be fine)

6.   Place the pile of templates A to H close to hand near the sewing machine. Line up the first 2 strips, right sides together, left edges aligned and strip 1 ( yellow 2″) on top, under the raised presser foot – see the photo.

7.   Slide the paper template A over the fabric, aligning the seam marker line between A1 and A2 approximately ( at least) ¼” from left edge. ( Accurate ¼” seam not necessary, you can err towards a bigger seam!) Bring down the presser foot and sew accurately on line. Do not cut thread, or remove the fabric/ paper.

8.   Now line up Template B under Template A, making sure that the templates do not overlap. Sew on the line between B1 and B2. Line up Template C next…and so on…ensuring you leave about 1/8″ between the paper templates.

9. At the end of this exercise, you have 8 templates A to H lined up and sewn to Strips 1 and 2, like this pic. Carry them to the ironing board.

10. Flip over ( to the unprinted paper side) and press over seam to set it. Open the blue strip and press again.


Note the distance between the paper templates in the pic – it is very important that the templates not be too close to each other.

11. Flip over to the printed paper side …

.. …and cut the strips carefully, along the paper template edges, to separate the templates.

This is how your templates should look now…

12. Now to the cutting mat to trim down your seam to ¼”.
Fold back the paper to reveal the seam and using your ruler and rotary cutter, trim it down to ¼”.

If you are not a perfection freak, it is absolutely okay to just trim the seam with your scissors to approximately ¼”.
Now head back to the sewing machine!

13. We now attach the 3rd strip to these templates. Basically, we shall be doing the same thing that we did when we attached Strip 1 to Strip 2.

So here goes!

  • Queue up your templates again A to H.
  • Place Strip 3 ( right side up) under A2, aligning the edges to the left ¼” beyond the seam line between A2 and A3.

  • Sew on the seamline. Again, do not remove from under machine.
  • Chain piece B, C, D…H as you did for strips 1 and 2.

You end up with this…

…which you carry to the ironing table!

  • Iron , cut to separate the templates and trim the seams to ¼”.


14. Attach strip 4 , iron, cut, trim seams.

15. The final yellow strip at the outer edge is 3.5″ wide. This is attached in the same way…

…cut apart, seams trimmed. Now trim the outer edges roughly.
Your templates A to H are pieced!

16.  The next step will be piecing templates I to P.

Here, we start piecing from the outer edge of the circle and go towards the centre.
Get your fabric strips together and label them, in the following order –

Blue Code 7 -3.5″ (I have used this delicious mottled fabric instead of the deep blue shown in the pattern)

Blue Code 4 -2.5″

Blue Code 3 – 2.5″

Blue Code 2 – 2.5″

Orange Code 6 – 2″

17. Now to begin piecing this second set of templates! Just to remind you, as you begin, the order top to bottom is –

  1. Paper template I (printed side up)
  2. Strip 1 ( Code 7) right side down under I1
  3. Strip 2 (Code 4) right side up

The edges of Strips 1 and 2 are aligned approximately ¼” beyond the seam line 1.
Sew on Seam line 1. Without taking fabric and template off the machine, chain piece all the templates as shown in pic above. Follow instructions above to piece the templates, ironing, cutting, trimming seams at each stage.

Till here we are, almost at the end of our piecing !

.

18. Attach the last strip, iron, and cut apart the templates. Trim seams.

19.  Trim the fabric on the edges of the templates roughly. Refer to the Master Template and lay out your pieced templates (alternating the two lots) and admire them!

20. Piecing the centre.

Cut the 2 orange and 2 yellow squares diagonally. Piece using the templates Q and R.

In my original pattern, I had pieced the centre with 16 segments , but have revised it to 8 segments, as the 16- spoked centre became too bulky to handle.

Stand back and whoop with delight… you did it! That was simple, was it not? See, I told you so! Please do not hesitate to ask me if you get stuck at any stage…
Time  to sit back and relax …till we are ready to assemble these.

 Please note that the downloadable patterns and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my online store MadsPatch.company.site and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

BUY PATTERN & ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS NOW!

 

Time to dig into your stash!

Fabric requirement for the ‘Round the Year” Quilt

You know, I used to be a banker! But I don’t remember checking and re-checking the accounts (in those days of manual banking) as many times as I have checked these figures. Each pattern will also be tested by at least one fellow quilter and me before I release it! But please remember, this Block of the Month quilt is more in the form of a quilt along; the fabric requirements that I give you are extrapolated from the five blocks that have been tested. True to my training as a conservative banker, I tend to err towards buying less fabric for a project than needed. This time I have made a conscious attempt to make a more realistic estimate and yet, it may not be very accurate. I hope you will bear with me on that! Having got that off my chest, let us get back to the task at hand.

Here is another look at the fabrics that I dug out of my stash for my quilt!

Several blues, a few oranges, golds and a dash of yellow! There are a few greys too, which I shall use in the background squares.

As you can see, I am using an assortment of fat quarters of Fossil Fern by Benartex and some batiks from The Square Inch. Basically, you need a minimum of 4 shades of the main fabric ( blues here) and at least 4 shades of the focus fabric ( ranging deep orange to bright yellow here), besides the background fabric ( at least two shades of grey here). There is a lot of flexibility in the choice of fabric and colours in the pattern, as long as you use fabric with strong contrast within a block. I have even designed these blocks with just two colours!

The measurements given in the first table are for fabric requirement for 16 circles that are inset into squares to make up the quilt. (Measurements for the background fabric are given in a different table.) In India, most fabric is available in 34″ – 36″ width, so I give that requirement in the last column. So here we go!

Fabric for 16 circles

Colour Fabric 40-44″ width Fat quarters Fabric 36″ width
Deepest blue/ Indigo 1 yard 4-5 1 metre
Dark blue 1 to 1 ¼ yard 4-5 fat quarters 1.25 metres
Medium blue 1 ½ yards 6-8 fat quarters 1. 5 metres
Light blue 1 1/4 yards 5-6 fat quarters 1.25 metres
Blues ( Total 18-20 fat quarters)
Deep orange 1 yard 3-4 1 metre
Light orange 3/4 yard 3-4 3/4 metre
Gold 1 yard 4-5 1 metre
Yellow ¾ yard 3 ¾ metre
Orange to yellow ( Total 12-14 fat quarters)

 

Background fabric

This gives the total fabric requirement. If, like me, you plan to use 2 or more fabrics, the yardage would need to be adjusted accordingly.

42-44″ width 34″-36″ width Fat quarters
Single 18″ Block 12.5″ X 20″ or25″ X 10″ 1 fat quarter ( cut 20″ X 12.5″) 1 fat quarter ( cut 20″ X 12.5″)
16 blocks (72″ x 72″ quilt without border and sashing) 3 yards 3.5 *metres 16 fat quarters
16 blocks ( 90″ x 90″ )
Including borders and sashing
5.5 yards 6 metres

I have also given the requirement for a single block, so that if you plan making fewer blocks, you can do your own calculations!

(* On second thoughts, have increased this to 3.5 metres from the more conservative 3.25 metres given earlier.)

Backing and batting

Backing fabric 42-44″ width 34″-36″ width Batting
16 blocks (72″ x 72″ quilt without border and sashing) 4 ½ yards 6.75 metres 80″ x 80″
16 blocks ( 90″ x 90″ )
Including 4″ overage
7.5 yards 7.5 metres 100″ x100″

Batting

If you are buying pre-cut batting, you would need Double/ Full size batting for the smaller quilt and King Size for the bigger one.

 

Binding

2.5″ wide binding Length of binding required 42-44″ width fabric 34″- 36″ width fabric
16 blocks (72″ x 72″ quilt without border and sashing) 300 inches length 5/8 yard (55 cms) 65 cms
16 blocks ( 90″ x 90″ )
Including borders and sashing
370 inches length ¾ yard (70 cms) 75 cms

 

Now to let you into a secret! I am not going to set my circles into the squares till all of them are done. I will then play around with the settings and layout till I find one that I like. I am not even buying the background fabric till then. You could do the same!

Your turn to get cracking, while I can relax for a day or two after all these mathematical calculations! Enjoy!

P.S. I have been thinking about this a lot – this seems to be such one way communication! Why don’t we start an online group, like perhaps a facebook group, where we can share our fabrics, blocks etc and drool over what others are doing? I’d love to hear from you, so please do write in to me!

You can download the fabric requirements for the blue-orange-yellow colourway from this link. Fabric Requirement -Round the Year – Dusk.

Some of you may prefer a more modern look! Like this one below? 20140704-194518-71118342.jpg

You can download the requirement for the `Rainbow” colourway from this link. Fabric requirement – Rainbow Round the Year

Testing, testing…and some welcome confusion!

I decided to try out one of the alternative colour ways that I suggested for my Block of the Month quilt ‘Round the Year’, before I post the fabric requirements on the 7th  July. There were a few glitches in this block pattern, but I have sorted those out.
Here is a first look at the under-construction block , which I call “Hope” after the famous blue diamond!

"Hope" aka "Blue Diamond"
Block “Hope” / Blue Diamond from the “Round the Year” quilt

I absolutely love this and am tempted to scrap the other blue- orange-yellow and make this one instead! Or perhaps I’ll make both the quilts !? My daughter in law loves the blue and orange combination, so that goes to her. This – the ‘modern’ version – shall be mine! Meanwhile, here is a look at Block Two “Evening at the Pond”  from the other one…

Evening at the Pond
Block Two – Evening at the Pond “Round the Year” quilt

What do you suggest? Which one? If you are on facebook, why don’t you visit my page “Patchwork of my Life” ? Click on the link, visit my page, like it and tell me what you think. I so  look forward to hearing from you!

Easy Peasy Circle Applique and Drunkard’s Path Quilt Blocks

The circle and the  Drunkards path ( a quarter circle place on one corner of a square) are two patches which send a shudder up any beginner quilter’s back!  I had to encounter both when working on the just takes 2 quilt – a 2012 mystery quilt along! There were plenty of circles -I was quite okay with those! But one of the blocks was the drunkard’s path which I kept putting off till the last – until I went back to the site today! Gay Bomers of Sentimental Stitchers has provided a brilliant tutorial to appliqué it instead of piecing it! She back- basted a circle to a square and cut it into 4 to yield four pieces of the block!
I loved that, but decided to make it even simpler…using the method I use to applique circles. There is nothing new about this – nothing that I have come up with! Learnt it long long ago, do not even remember from whom and when! Am sure many of you use this in any case, but for those new to sewing and piecing, it may be of help! So here goes!

How to appliqué perfect circles

You’ll need

Fabric (Squares) for the background

Smaller squares for the circles

Compass, pencil,  graph paper (optional)

Washable glue  or thread/ needle for tacking

Washable fabric marker pencil/ pen (optional – you could use a lead pencil – I do!)

1. Draw your circle (ready size) on paper. I like to use inch graph paper ( which I download from the web) , using one of the line crossings as a centre. Paste it on stiff card ( greeting cards are great) and cut out (without a seam allowance). This is your template.
2. The circle fabric needs to be a square approximately 1/2 to 3/4″ larger than the ready circle.
3. Using the card template, cut out circles from the circle fabric squares, adding a seam allowance of roughly 1/4″ all around. You need not be very accurate.
4. Increase your sewing machine stitch length to the max. Start with a long thread tail ( 4″ thereabouts)and sew about 1/8″ inside from the edge all around the circle. Again leave a long tail before snipping the thread. Prepare all your circles like this. I like to sew by hand, so I skipped the machine and did a running stitch all around! 🙂
5. Place your circle template on a   prepared fabric circle and pull the thread tails on the right side to gather the fabric on the template, like this!

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6. Tie the tails together and iron to set the edges. Gently remove the template. Prepare all the circles like this.
7. Now we get to work on the background squares! Place the template in the centre of the square on the right side. Some amount of accuracy is necessary here – it helps to fold the square and mark sharp creases near the edge.

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My template was on graph paper, so I could line it up accurately against the creases and centre the circle accurately.
8. Trace the circle on the background square, just a teenie weenie bit inside the template. Do this for all the squares.
9. Place your fabric circles on the background squares aligning them accurately on the pencil line. You can use washable school glue placing tiny dots of glue less than 1/4″ inside the circle.

20130604-211925.jpg

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Or you could tack them in place by hand! Like the circle on the right below…

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10. Sew them in place using your favourite method. Machine them or – like I did- appliqué them by hand!

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So you have your perfect appliquéd circles in less than no time!

Drunkard’s Path
This is real fun! All you need is your rotary cutter and ruler! Cut the circle appliquéd blocks into quarters!

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Here are my 16 drunkard path patches, made from 4 appliquéd circle blocks!

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And here they are, as they will look in my final drunkard path block 🙂 all done in less than two hours!

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This was a finished 9″ block, but imagine how quickly a whole drunkards path quilt could come up, using lager circles and squares! You could trim the little background quarter circles from the back and use them in a border – making the drunkard path blocks the regular way.

Happy trip down the Drunkard’s Path! 🙂

Perfect basic four-patch square quilt block every time!

The four- patch block is certainly versatile! I recently had the occasion to make several 9 square patch and 4 patch square blocks…
I saw and followed from YouTube an easy and quick method for the basic nine patch block and decided to adopt and adapt it for the four patch!

This method gives you perfect four- patches, points matched just so! and a pair each time! It is also great to use with pre-cut squares, such as charm squares or layer cakes.
So here we go!

Since I had several 4-patch blocks to make ( ready 2.5 ” square) so I started with two strips, one black and one white, which were 3.5″ wide. Remember, cut your strips just one inch wider than the size of the ready block.

If you want a single pair of 4 patch blocks 2.5″ square, begin with squares 3.5″…

Quick 4-square patch
Begin with strips 1′ wider than your ready block

2. Join the strips along the longer edges ( both sides!)

Join strips along both edges
1/4″ seam along both long edges

3. Cut the joined strips at 3.5″ intervals. ( size of ready block plus 1′)

Cut into squares - ready block size plus 1"
Cut into 3.5″ squares ( or ready plus 1″)

If you wanted a single pair of blocks, you would have this at the end of the first step! That is, you would have started with 2 squares of 3.5″ and sewed along opposite sides as above…
Similarly, if you were working with pre-cuts, this is where you would be after joining a pair of charm s or layer cakes along opposite sides.

4. Slice through each block as shown, parallel to the seams.

Cut each piece along centre, parallel to the seams
Cut each piece along centre, parallel to the seams

Here instead of measuring 1.75″ from the edge of the fabric, measure 1.5″ from the seam to find the centre!

5. Open and press towards the darker fabric! Or the light! (Just be consistent about which side you press them on) Or, press open your seams, if you like. (I don’t! 🙁 )

Seams pressed towards dark fabric
Seams pressed towards dark fabric

6. Place the pieces in pairs, right sides facing. Black on white and white on black!

Pair the pieces, right sides inside and opposite colours facing each other
Pair the pieces, right sides inside and opposite colours facing each other

7. Pile them, dark piece away from you, and seam towards the machine. This helps the seams of the top and bottom pieces `butt’ against each other, and you get a perfect corner!

Join the pairs as shown.

Stitch all the patches on one side, without cutting the thread! This is called chain-piecing
Stitch all the patches on one side, without cutting the thread!
Flip over, sew along opposite side! Chain stitching makes things move fast!
Flip over, sew along opposite side! Chain piecing makes things move fast!

8. Now snip the chain links to separate the pieces, and we are almost there!

Cut along the centre line of each piece
Cut along the centre line of each piece

9. Abacadabra! We are there!

Open to reveal perfect four patch blocks!
Open to reveal perfect four patch blocks!

Impossible for the blocks not to be perfect 🙂

You shall have two sets of blocks. With the seam on the right, one set shall have white on the top and the other shall have black on the top. This is unimportant, except the slight adjustments required when making larger blocks from these.

Two sets of blocks
Two sets of blocks

11. One little step more, my favourite! 🙂

Flip the block to the wrong side, and use your ripper to rip those few stitches in the centre. Finger press the seams in a whirl …this reduces bulk!

Whirl in the centre
Whirl in the centre

And here is your 4-patch

Done!
Done!

This method is particularly useful when you have several 4-patches to make as in a border. It prevents fabric from getting distorted along the longer edge and is great if you like working on minis!

Here are a few quilts where I have used 4-patch blocks!

Four patch border
Four patch border on a queen size quilt
Christmas Quilt for Brinda
4-patch on a miniature Quilt
Sixteen 4-patches were used to make this chessboard.
Sixteen 4-patches were used to make this chessboard.

And how many basic 4-patches in this work in progress?

How many 4-patches here?
How many 4-patches here?

Happy counting (and quilting)!