Block 10 Chakra -Dreamcatcher Quilt – Revised Instructions File uploaded

Fabric Code Design ( without the half circles)
Fabric Code ( picture without the appliqued half circles)

 

Revised instructions for the chakra block have been uploaded on the main blogpost, as there was an error in the fabric coding n the previous file. The templates remain the same. Please download and print the revised istructions – also downloadable here.

Block10 Chakra Instructions

I am very sorry for the inconvenience.

While all my Dreamcatcher patterns are free and will continue to remain so, may I request you to visit the webpage of my favourite not-for-profit organization Samarpan Foundation and donate whatever you deem fit towards the wonderful work they are doing to spread joy, peace and happiness through the world? 

Ring in the New Year with the Wedding Ring! Block Nine, Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt

Round the Year Quilt Block Nine Wedding Ring

 Wishing you a Very Happy New Year!

Have you not always wanted to make a double wedding ring block? A whole quilt would be too much, but just one block?  We have a comparatively complicated block lined up for the next fortnight and many of us have a few pending blocks to catch up with.  Plus, I celebrate my 33rd wedding anniversary this January – that clinched it for me! A wedding ring block it is, to start 2015!

You may like to see how I used this block to make a wedding anniversary gift for my sister-in-law a couple of years ago.

This 18″ block, with a 15″ paper pieced wedding ring, is the ninth of the Round the Year Block of the Month quilt, which began mid July 2014.

INSTRUCTIONS

Click the link at the end of this post for templates and instructions (including fabric requirements) in downloadable .pdf format.

Fabric Requirements

I have used 5 shades in the blue- violet spectrum and 3 shades in the yellow-orange range to piece this block. The background is in two shades of grey.

Fabric Requirement
Fabric Requirement

Printing and Cutting Instructions

  1. Take print outs of the 3 files Instructions, Templates1 and Templates2 with printer settings at 100% or actual size in portrait mode. I printed Templates.2 file on freezer paper for ease and accuracy in cutting fabric.
  2. You have the following templates:

Templates.1     Twelve paper piecing templates for ring – A to L

Templates.2

Templates R1 and R2 for background. You need to glue at edge as indicated in template – cut 2 each from fabrics #1 and #2. I am not joining the pieced circles to background right now; I shall do them all together. For this particular block, I recommend assembling the entire circle and the attaching it to the background.

Template M for melon – Cut two from each of the Fabric#4 (deep blue) and Fabric #3 (lightest blue)

Template Q in two parts – glue at edge indicated to make into one template.

Piecing and Assembly Instructions

Please refer to this Master Template as a guide for piecing and assembly. Remember, it is a mirror image, and shows the block from the reverse, printed paper side!

Master Template - Wedding Ring Block. This is a mirror image!
Master Template – Wedding Ring Block. This is a mirror image!

Step by Step Instructions

Melons

It is easy to chain strip piece the ring templates A, B, C, D. Detailed instructions for this technique of foundation paper piecing are given with the Block One, Dahlia pattern!

Chain strip piecing. Have you reduced the stitch length?
Chain strip piecing. Have you reduced the stitch length?

Remember

  • Strip for A1, B1, C1, D1 ( Fabric #9 here) will be placed, wrong side touching paper on unprinted side.
  • Incoming strip, for A2, B2, C2, D2 ( Fabric #7 here) will be placed right sides together with previous strip.
  • Keep sufficient space between templates when chain piecing.
  • Cut apart the templates before attaching next strip.
  • Press open the strip before you cut apart the templates!
Press open incoming strip before cutting templates apart.
Press open incoming strip before cutting templates apart.

And remember, what not to do!

Two templates stitched as one!
Two templates stitched as one!

Jack (the Ripper) had to intervene!

Next step – to piece Templates E, F, G, H and I, J, K, L…

… and arrange them all together and admire them!

The rings are pieced, Stand back and admire!
The rings are pieced, Stand back and admire!

But not for long! The outer ring templates are to be joined – E to I, F to J, G to K and H to L as shown in the Master template. ( Theoretically, these could be glued and pieced as one – EI, FJ, GK and KL respectively. Since the templates are printed on A4 size paper, they are broken into two parts!)

Sew together the outer ring templates in pairs.
Sew together the outer ring templates in pairs.

That was quick!

Now to attach the melons M, N, O and P to the pieced inner rings A, B, C and D respectively.

First, I  trimmed the pieced templates carefully on the dotted line for an accurate ¼” seam allowance!

I used a couple of pins to align the melon to the ring. I folded the melons into half to find the centre and pinned  them, seam to seam at centre of piece #4 on the templates – A4, B4, C4 and D4.

Pin the melon to the inner ring on seam line at centre
Pin the melon to the inner ring on seam line at centre

I then matched the blunt edges at the corner where I would begin my seam line, and secured them with another pin.

Secure the start corner. The end corner remains free.
Secure the start corner. The end corner remains free.

I chose  the 1/4″ stitch option on my Hasina Husqavarna Viking machine, reduced the speed to a minimum and gently eased the melon curve to sew it to the template, moving 2-3 stitches at a time.

Melon attached to inner ring. Press down seam.
Melon attached to inner ring. Press down seam.

I pressed the seam towards the melon. My seam is a little uneven, but this does not bother me. The best thing I like about curves is that they just fall into place if you press them down gently!

Perfect!
Perfect!

The next step involves attaching the inner ring to the melon. Is this going to get a bit more challenging?  Referring to the Master Template, I attached EI to AM; FJ to BN, GK to CO and HL to DP.

Attaching melon to outer ring : Align and pin on seam line.
Attaching melon to outer ring : Align and pin on seam line.

After aligning the two pieces at the centre – melon to outer ring template, I used vertical pins to align the corners at the edge of the rings ( A7 to I4 in this instance). I then secured them with a pin in the centre.

You will notice that I pinned only at the corner at which I started the seam, not at the end. I find that a pair of tweezers helps in keeping everything in place.

Tweezers, ripper and scissors on call. Not visble - pin cushion!
Tweezers, ripper and scissors on call. Not visble – pin cushion!
Fix thread and needle down. Speed minimum
Fix thread and needle down. Speed minimum, stitch length 1.5.

I `fixed’ the thread as I started, kept the needle in the ‘down’ mode and move very slowly. And yet…

Oops! Something moved - needs re-doing!
Oops! Something moved – needs re-doing!

Perhaps it would be better to keep the ring template on top, to get a perfect seam?

I finished the four melons and pressed seams inwards, towards the melon. This was surprisingly easy and done in less than 15 minutes, pinning and all!

Centre

To move to the centre now – I first made a pinwheel using the two 5.5″ squares each of Fabric # 3 and Fabric #4.  I used the easiest way of making the pinwheel. I paired the light squares with the dark and drew a line on one diagonal on each top light square.

Diagonal on paired squares.
Diagonal on paired squares.


Sew  1/4' seam on either side of line and cut on line
Sew 1/4′ seam on either side of line and cut on line

I sewed a ¼” seam on either side of the diagonal and then cut along the centre pencil line. I now had four HST (half square triangle) squares. I usually press the seams to the darker side, but here I chose to press them open.

I then joined the four squares to make a pinwheel; pressed open the seams again, to reduce bulk.

Seams pressed open; the 4 squares joined together WRONG! The dark patches should be where the light ones are!
Seams pressed open; the 4 squares joined together. The patch in this picture is pieced WRONG! The dark patches should be where the light ones are!

Perfect? No! As it turns out, I joined this wrong; the dark patches should be where the light ones are and vice versa. You may think this does not matter, but it does, in my colour scheme! You will soon know why!

I printed only one half of the Template Q and used this to trim the centre. I pressed the freezer paper template to the pinwheel, matching the seams to the lines on the template…

Press freezer paper template Q in place.( I have only one half of the template)
Press freezer paper template Q in place.( I have only one half of the template)

…trimmed one side…

Trim along dotted line
Trim along dotted line

…and the other. The centre was fast work too!

Alternatively you can cut HSTs from the squares and paper piece the centre.

I now trimmed the freezer paper template to the seam line and pressed it in place, on the right side of the pieced centre. The markings on the template helped me align the centre to the melons.

Centre done! Trim template to seam line to help pinning on alignment markers.
Centre done! Trim template to seam line to help pinning on alignment markers.


Ready for final assembly!

Final Assembly

I first joined the melons on opposite sides of centre Q.

Now is the time to bring on the pins! I inserted vertical pins through the two patches at corners, and on alignment markers about an inch to inch and a half apart

Pin
Pin.

I then attached horizontal pins on the seam as shown, removing the vertical pins as I went along. Pins stuck in this way are easy to pull out and unlikely to prick your hands.

Pin, pin!
Pin, pin!

I removed the template before I sewed the two patches together. I then pinned the template on the opposite side.

Pin, pin, pin!
Pin, pin, pin!

Upto this step, everything went off unexpectedly quickly, other than that small encounter with the ripper!

Now things started getting a bit tricky .

Worth all the pinning? Opposite melons attached.
Worth all the pinning? Opposite melons attached.

 I had read on a blog somewhere, that you should not press your block at this stage, but I don’t think that works for me! I suggest you DO iron the seams towards the centre pinwheel, before you move to melons #3 and #4.

And don’t spare those pins! Especially at the corner, where the centre meets the melon. Join the melon in one smooth curve. My corners did not match on Lemon #3 and I had to do a bit of ripping at this stage, because I had not pressed the patch and I had not pinned enough. I could appreciate why this block is traditionally hand pieced; I was sorely tempted to do this step by hand to set those offending corners just right!

These few hiccups apart, this was a simple block to make – I could finish it in an afternoon.

One last thing – the seams! Press the seams on Lemon#3 and Lemon#4 outward – towards the edge of the circle!

Press last two seams towards edge.
Press last two seams towards edge.

Voila! We are done with Block Nine!

Yippeee!!!
Yippeee!!!

Now to come back to the little matter of the clockwise pinwheel. Can you see that the dark triangle on the pinwheel is touching the dark (blue) side of the inner ring? Would it not have been prettier to have the yellow-orange contrast against the dark blue, like in the original design?

Before I upload the Instructions and Template Files, one more thing! Many of you have asked me for a mirror image of the block in colour to help in assembling the block – I do not know how useful that can be – but here it is!

Coloured Master Template (Mirror Image) with fabric code
Coloured Master Template (Mirror Image) with fabric code

You can download the free pattern and instructions from these links. You would need Adobe Reader (software available online for free download) on your computer to be able to view these files.

  1. Instructions Block 9 Wedding Ring, Round the Year Quilt.
  2. Templates.1 Block 9 Wedding Ring Round the Year Quilt.
  3. Templates.2 Block 9 Wedding Ring Round the Year Quilt

Have a wonderful year ahead! Happy quilting!

While all my Dreamcatcher patterns are free and will continue to remain so, may I request you to visit the webpage of my favourite not-for-profit organization Samarpan Foundation and donate whatever you deem fit towards the wonderful work they are doing to spread joy, peace and happiness through the world? 

 

 

Catching-Up Day One – of Spikes and Pixels

I am quite satisfied with what I achieved yesterday, which was Day One of finishing up my pending blocks of my free BOM Quilt, Round the Year! I probably could do a bit more, but am being careful with my back.
The blades, spikes and wedges of Block 8 Spiked Dresden are joined together!

The Dresden ring is pieced! Now for the centre...
The Dresden ring is pieced! Now for the centre…

Pixellated Centre – Post 1

I have also started working on the centre, which I plan to piece like this!

IMG_1064.PNG
I am employing a method which uses one sided fusible webbing – this is slightly modified from what I learnt from a tute by Elizabeth Hartmann. It is a great technique for doing any pixelated quilt/ block!
Just in case you decide to piece your centre like mine, I am showing you how I did mine!
I have to piece a 7″ diameter block with 1/2″ ready squares. If I add a seam allowance of 1/2″ ( a larger seam allowance is always good when appliqueing circles) – I need an 8″ circle… Okay, I know not everyone loves the Maths like I do, so, without getting into too many calculations – let me show you what I did!

I started with:

4 shades of blue fabric – 6″ x 10″ each. I did need a few 2″ x 1″ strips more. You can add those as you need them.

Sheet of one-sided lightweight fusible webbing about 19″ square.

Fine permanent marker pen
18″x24″ cutting mat
6″x24″ ruler ( you can take any ruler 18″ or more in length)
Paper tape

Step 1. Draw a grid

The first step, is drawing an inch grid on the stabilizer sheet, and this is what I did a bit differently. I had planned to print the grid on the sheet, but my sheet had wrinkles. As I decided to draw lines manually, a brain wave struck! Why not use the inch grid on the mat as a guide to draw the grid ? then I don’t have to worry about getting the squares truly square!

Here is the story in pictures.

I placed the stabilizer sheet on the cutting mat. You can see how wrinkled it looks, and you can’t iron away those creases either. The sticky side is down.

Tape the fusible stabilazer sheet to the cutting mat.
I placed the fusible stabilizer sheet on the cutting mat…the inch grid is visible through the sheet.

Tape the sheet to the mat at the edges – smoothen as much as you can. The paper tears when you remove the tape, so I was glad I had the foresight to take a margin of an inch plus all around.

Tape the edges to the mat.
I taped the edges to the mat.

I used my long ruler to draw grid lines on the sheet, using the inch grid visible below the sheet as a guide. I drew lines on either side of the ruler before moving it to the next inch mark. you could use a lead pencil instead of a perma-ink pen, anything that is visible from the other side and does not smudge is fine.

Using the inch grid as a guide, start drawing lines on the sheet with a perma-pen.
Using the inch grid as a guide,I drew lines on the sheet with a perma-pen.

That was quick! Now the other side…

Draw perpendicular lines to get your inch grid.
Draw perpendicular lines to get your inch grid.

Note to self – I could have drawn a grid any size with this method, only skipping the inch lines appropriately.

I marked the centre with a cross. This will help me in placing the fabric squares.

Mark the centre with a cross. (Use a pencil instead of the pen I used here)
Mark the centre with a cross. (Use a pencil instead of the pen I used here)

Step One is done!

Step 2. Cutting the fabric

Here are my four rectangles of fabric 6′ x 10″ nicely starched and pressed. Do not spare the starch, the success of this method depends on it!

My four shades of blue - 6" x 10" each - starched, pressed and ready to cut!
My four shades of blue – 6″ x 10″ each – starched, pressed and ready to cut!

I cut 42 squares from each of the fabrics – using 6″x 7″ of the fabric. I kept aside the 3″ x 6″ strips

I cut 1" squares from the fabric, except a 3" x 6" strip.
I cut 1″ squares from the fabric, except a 3″ x 6″ strip.

Step 3 Pixellating

As I started off, I realized that an 18″ square was going to be difficult to handle, so I cut it into twoalong a grid line just above the centre row.

I now arranged my inch fabric squares on the grid. This will be a circle, so I did not bother to add any fabric on the corners, where it will be cut away in any case. The centre line of the proposed circle ( top row here) has 13 squares and the middle column has 7 squares.  At the edges, I placed 2″ x 1″ rectangles. ( I cut these from the 3″ x 6″ fabric I had put aside earlier)

I want a bigger seam than the 1/4″ we use for our quilt piecing, so I have placed 2″ rectangles at the edges! This will mean one less seam line at the edge. We will know tomorrow if this worked or not!

Arrange the fabric squares  on the sticky side of grid
Arrange the fabric squares on the sticky side of grid

Once the squares were arranged to my satisfaction, I pressed them down. This is the trickiest part, because squares as small as these like to move around and even fly off!

I similarly `pixellated’ the other cut of the stabilizer and pressed the squares in place. Here is how the two halves look!

Ready for the Hasina!
Ready for the Hasina!

The centre piece is now ready to head to the sewing machine. And this is where I called it a day!

I hope you will be back tomorrow to see how this goes!

The Birth of a Design …

The pattern for Block Six of the Round the Year Quilt was posted yesterday. (What you see above is the Rainbow version of the block. The black and white striped area could be any black and white modern, text or geometrical print.)

To get back to the story I was going to tell you, I started by calling this simply the Spiral Block. It was rechristened to Spiral Bargello. Roulette was another name that stuck around for a long time, for obvious reasons. I then thought of Maelstrom and even Cyclone, before my friend and fellow quilter Sobana said it reminded her of Lollipop Candy!

Like the name, the block design itself underwent a number of avatars!

 

This, here is Spiral1, scrapped, because even after removing all the curves, there are too many points to match.

 
So I came up with a block with staggered and angled pieces, that became wider as you approached the edge of the circle.

 

But these made me feel kind of giddy! And too loud! So, this is what Jaya Parker tested for me.

And came up with this!

But neither of us cared for it too much! She decided to make another block…

…using a bargello kind of staggered strip piecing method.

Isn’t that gorgeous?

Meanwhile, I decided to make some further changes in the design and sent it off to Sobana for testing.

Here is Sobana’s Test Block

Pretty? But there were a few problems with the design. For one, the strips used were different widths and therefore confusing! I also made a cardinal error in the design, ending the circle up at 16.5″ instead of 15″!

So after a lot of more work, here is the final design.

All the fabric strips are the same width, making the cutting easier. There are no points to match, making the assembly simpler. As for piecing the block itself, I have shared the chain strip method with you earlier, which makes piecing a piece of of cake! But very soon, as soon as I am allowed to sit and sew ( yes, my sciatica is getting better, so cross my fingers, I should be soon on my sewing table!), I will share with you the bargello metod of piecing this, with pictures!

Before I say bye for the day, I must thank my wonderful testers, who have been working on these blocks with a minimal amount of input from me! I must also tell you that I have been experimenting with all these designs and colours on the amazing quilt assistant free software from www.cosman.nl. Do go and check it out!

I have to start printing templates of Block Nine and fine tuning Block Ten, while Cindy Ellerbe, another generous quilter, tests Block Seven for me…