Woohoo! The Dreamcatcher is going to Houston, Texas and am I excited, or what!
I am on a vacation at the most gorgeous place, where I have no pics of the quilt to share with you. So I will share a pic of this lovely little lily pool here, instead!
Best of luck to all the finalists!
Am I excited and relieved at the same time, or what, to present the sixteenth and final block of the DreamcatcherRound the Year Quilt !?! This 24-spoke Mariner’s Compass is foundation paper pieced and is, like the other blocks of this Block of the Month quilt, drafted as a 15″ (finished) circle set in an 18″ (finished) square. I learnt to draft this block from a workshop by Adina Sullivan, “Mastering the Maddening Mariner” in “Quiltskills – Workshops from The Quilters’ Guild Australia” (published by The Patchwork Place, 1998). Adina has the most fabulous quilts based on the Mariner’s Compass and I had been gathering the courage to attempt these since the last six years or so, when I bought this book. You may recall that Southward Bound was also drafted using the method taught by Adina. She uses the English paper piecing method to construct her blocks, mine is completely machine pieced!
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
I used Quilt Assistant, a great free quilt design software for designing the block. The pattern instructions and paper piecing templates can be downloaded in PDF format from the links at the end of this post.
This block uses 2 shades of blue and 4 contrasting colours in the yellow-gold-light orange spectrum for the Compass, set in a third shade of blue for the background.
Trivia – This block contains 269 pieces! But don’t worry, we will be working with strips, so that you need not worry about cutting dozens of pieces.
| Fabric Code | Colour | Fabric Required | Cutting Instructions |
| 1 | Pale Blue |
19″ square* |
|
| 2 | Medium Blue |
6″ WOF |
Cut 3 strips WOF 2″ wide |
|
2 squares 4.5″ |
Cut along both diagonals to get 8 QSTs |
||
| 3 | Deep Blue |
6″ WOF |
Cut 3 strips WOF 2″ wide |
| 4 | Deep Orange |
3″ x 30″ |
|
| 5 | Gold |
3″ x 30″ |
|
| 6 | Yellow |
3.25″ x 30″ |
Cut into strips 2″ x 30″ 1.25″ x 30″ |
| 7 | Light Orange |
3″ x 24″ |
*I have given a template for joining the background by piecing, but for this block I suggest appliqueing the compass on a square.
Do remember to spray starch and press your fabric before cutting it. I do not have access to spray starch, so I make my own by adding two capfuls of the locally available liquid fabric stiffener (sold by the name of Revive) to 100ml of water in a spray bottle.
Print the Templates File at 100% / actual size in portrait mode. Cut out the templates. I suggest you ignore the background template AG( in two parts), as we will be appliqueing the compass on a background square. It may prove useful for marking the circle on the background fabric.
Print the Instructions File, which includes the Fabric Requirement chart and Master Template, and keep at hand for piecing and assembly.
If you are attempting a block from this quilt for the first time, or even if you have not foundation paper pieced for a while, you may like to see this blogpost for decoding the paper piecing patterns for this BOM and this one, which reminds you of certain do’s and don’ts for paper piecing these blocks. If you are new to paper piecing itself, there are several great tutes online on the subject!
First we piece the spokes of the outer ring (Templates A to X), using (majorly) the chain strip piecing method, that we have used for several earlier blocks. To avoid confusion and efficient use of fabric, the following order of piecing is suggested. We start with templates A to F and fabric strips which will come at piece#1 and piece#2 ( Fabric Codes#4 and #3 respectively). The following photos will explain how we chain piece the templates to the strip pair.
We are now ready to add the strip which will come in at Piece#3 (Fabric Code#2).
We are ready to add piece #4, for which we can use the trimmings from before! Similarly, piece templates G to L up to piece#4, i.e G1 to G4, H1 to H4…L1 to L4. Piece templates M to R up to piece#4, i.e M1 to M4, N1 to N4…R1 to R4. Piece templates S and T up to piece#4 Piece templates U and V up to piece#4 Piece templates W and X up to piece#4 Now, all our templates for the outer ring our pieced up to Piece#4.
Once we have reached this stage, order of piecing is not important. We are ready to add Piece#5 to all these templates, for which we can use the trimmings from Piece#2. Similarly, trimmings from piece#3 can be used for piece#6. This upcoming pic shows the spoke templates pieced till piece#6.
Here comes the strip which will occupy space at piece#7.
You will see that the broader portion of the templates are overlapping. The important thing is to maintain about 1/2″ distance between the seam you are sewing on one template and the next. 
Time for a break and a little bit of fun! 
ALWAYS, remember to press open the strip you have sewn before cutting apart the templates. Also trim the seams, and the fabric just sewn to 1/4″ inch or so, beyond the upcoming seam line. I used scraps for pieces #8, 9 and 10, where I could. When I ran out of scraps, I used strips. Here is the final strip coming up!
Trim and put them aside, ready for assembly.
To piece the inner circle compass, piece as follows: Piece Y, Z, AA and AB. Piece AC, AD, AE and AF Use QSTs from Fabric#2 at piece#1 in all these templates.
Use the Master Template given in the Instructions File as a guide for assembly. 
I suggest you make piles of the templates as follows: A-B-C ; D-E-F; G-H-I; J-K-L; M-N-O and P-Q-R. Put aside S-T-U-V-W-X
To join the templates, pin them first at the outer, broader edge. I like to insert vertical pins, matching the seams, before pinning on the seam line.
This results in perfectly matched seams and corners!
And so we sew the piles as follows ABC, DEF, GHI, JKL, MNO, PQR. Now bring on the pile S-T..X and add these, following the master template.
So you have 6 sets of partly assembled templates as follows: ABCS, DEFT, GHIU, JKLV, MNOX and PQRW. Remove the paper from the seams. You may like to press the seams open; I like to press them in one direction; all of them then must be pressed either clockwise or anti-clockwise. I also removed the paper from the inner templates, leaving it intact only at the circumference and inner edge. 
Now sew these together.
Assemble the inner circle in quarters … 
…then in halves. Again, I like to press the seams in one direction. 
and finally the full circle. I stitch first from one edge to the centre and reverse. Break thread, and stitch from the other edge to the centre. I then rip open a bit of the crossover seam at the centre to give the seams a ‘twirl’. 
I have not assembled the final block as of now. But this is how I suggest it be done: Join the ring to the square using your favourite method. Finally, appliqué the centre circle. Another look at the block and what inspired it.
I hope you will love making this block! I assure you the result is well worth the effort. Take it easy, enjoy every seam and then savour all the oohs and aahs your work receives! I have also, more or less, finalised the layout I am going to use for these blocks. I shall share it with you soon.
This is where you download the instructions and templates for the block. You would need Adobe Reader ( download for free online) to be able to read these PDF files.
1.BLOCK16 MARINER24 Instructions
2.BLOCK16 MARINER24 Paper Piecing Templates
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
Can you believe this is the last but one block the DreamcatcherRound the Year Block of the Month Quilt? I was in two minds whether to include this beautiful traditional pieced block in this quilt, where all the other blocks are majorly paper pieced. You decided it for me and I couldn’t be happier!
I first made up this block almost 4 years ago, when I was quite new to quilting, using the winding ways block. I drafted it using this great tutorial by Kathy Somers. Partly pieced by hand and partly by machine, it finished at 4.5″ including the seams! I plan to include it in the next major project I embark on, a quilt made with miniature 4″ blocks including, perhaps, a few Dear Jane and Nearly Insane quilt blocks and some of my very own.
To get back to Block Fifteen, it finishes at 18.5″ square with the seam allowances. The inset circle is 15″ plus 1/2″ seam allowance. I have drafted this on free quilt design software Quilt Assistant, which I have used to draft all the blocks of this quilt!
The block looks difficult, but the curves are really gentle and if you cut accurately, and pin carefully, it is a breeze to piece!
This block will be appliquéd to the background square. You will need a 19″ square in Fabric#1 .
1. Print the Instructions File and Templates File on A4 size paper with your printer settings on 100% or Actual Size in portrait mode. I used freezer paper to print the templates. I just press it on the fabric and cut around it!
To print on freezer paper, cut A4 size freezer paper and lightly iron the edges on to regular printer paper. Print as usual on freezer paper side . Use a paper knife to separate.
2. Cut the templates A, B and C . I cut 2 sets of the templates to make the fabric cutting faster. You could also print them on ordinary paper, paste on stiff card and cut out to make reusable templates.
Please starch your fabric before cutting, to ensure accuracy and crispness in your block.
As you cut the fabric, use the alignment markers on the templates to mark the centre of each side of the fabric pieces. I have made notches as markers. I also marked the corners with a pencil on each of the pieces. I learnt the hard way that you save a lot of heartburn by taking time at this stage.
Follow the colour diagram and arrange all the fabric pieces where you do not need to disturb them.
The block will be pieced in different sections, numbered 1 to 7 here, as shown here and then assembled. Please follow pressing instructions, they are very important in this block! Trust me, I have made a whole quilt with these blocks.
Referring to the colour pattern, align the curved side of B on top of concave side of A, for all sets of A and B. Pin at the centre notch. I pinned them with the pin on the fabric and had to repin with the pin sticking out before sewing!
When piecing, you need only two pins. Match the blunt ends of the two pieces one at the corner where you begin, pin. The other pin is at the centre notch.
Once you are past the centre notch, use a pair of small forceps/ tweezers to gently align the fabric and finish the curve.
Piece all A-B sets. Press seam towards B.
Add piece C to one set of A-B in each of the sections # 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7. Place C on top, match notches, pin. The other pin aligns the corner points at the narrow end, where we begin the seam.
Press seam towards A.
Sew other set of AB from the section to corresponding ABC just sewn. Again, begin with narrow end of C on top. You will have to change your machine needle settings; in my machine, ¼” seam is at needle setting 1.8, so I shift it to -1.8 when doing this step. The seam will be on the left and fabric on the right as you face the machine!
Again, press the seam towards A.
Section#3 has just two C pieces. Reduce seam length, fix the seam at both ends. Join them at the narrow end and
finger press open the seam.
Join the corner B pieces to Sections#6 and #7 and press seam open.
All our sections are pieced!
First we assemble the centre square. (This is the basic winding ways block!) This is the crucial step which will determine the beauty of the block.
Carefully pin Section 3 centre seam to centre of Section 1.
Next, match the notch on the long side of C to notch on A and pin. Start sewing from centre outwards on one side, then the other. This way you can check if your centre points are matched or not!
Press seams toward A, away from the narrow section 3.
Similarly pin Section#2 to just assembled Section#1-3 and sew. Again press seam away from Section#3.
Now we sew Section#4 and #5 to centre square 123. Match notches and corresponding seams and pin.
The seams are REALLY bulky and you may need to use a lot of maneuvering to get them right!
Sew. Press seams open.
We are on the last step already! AS usual, match all intersecting seams and notches and join sections#6 and #7 to 12345. Press seams open.
I am quite happy with my block!
All that remains is to appliqué it to the 19″ background square and trim it to 18.5″. I am planning to use the freezer paper method to do so. What is your favourite method to appliqué a circle to a square?
I would love to see the blocks you come up with – on my Facebook page.
The sixteenth and last block will be up on May 1st! Like I told you, my mind is already on a fast forward mode, planning what is coming up next – perhaps, to a quilt with miniature blocks?! I do hope I will have the patience to finish this Round the Year quilt before that!
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
I started designing Block Fourteen as a tribute to the Dear Jane quilt. I experimented with a number of the Dear Jane triangular blocks, placing them revolving around a centre point to make a circle. This design came about when I was playing (on the free Quilt Assistant software ) with the block where flying geese fly outwards. I immediately fell in love with it! It does have a hypnotic quality to it, like a Mandala you can meditate upon. Also, if you take each of those wedges and subtract the outer level, the design remains the same. So, I have been trying ( in vain) to convince the few mathematicians whom I know, that this pattern a fractal! As a concession to them, I call this the (Almost) Fractal Mandala.
And so, I present to you, Block 14 of the Round the Year Block of the Month Quilt, the (Almost) Fractal Mandala!
Much to my chagrin, I discovered after I had made the block, that a similar block ( I do not know the name) already exists! I am still very proud of it, because I discovered my Mount Everest on my own, and climbed it too! So there!
The block, like all other blocks of the BOM quilt, is designed as a 15″ circle inset in an 18.5″ ( unfinished) square. It is a deceptively easy block to piece, hence not too many photos accompany this post.
The templates and instructions can be downloaded from the links at the end of this post. You can find the links to patterns for all the other blocks of this quilt on the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt Page ( click on the link above).
The brilliant Tina Katwal, one of the pioneer quilters from India, took out time from her busy schedule to test this block and you have to thank her, that you do not struggle with stingy fabric requirements!
The Dusk colourway uses 4 shades of blue and 4 fabrics in a contrasting yellow to orange range. I suggest you use use solids or very small prints combined with solids to best highlight the design element of the block. I have used Fossil Fern by Benartex for mine.
This is a great block for using any scraps/ strips of various sizes and shapes left over from the previous blocks. Nevertheless, I have tried to give some kind of estimate of the fabric requirement.
Please spray starch and press all your fabric before cutting!
| Fabric Colour |
Code |
Fabric needed | |
|
Orange |
4 |
2.5″ x 32″ | |
|
Gold |
5 |
4″ x 19″ | |
|
Light Orange |
6 |
3.5″ x 14″ | |
|
Yellow |
7 |
3.5″ x18″ | |
|
Light Blue |
1 |
4.5″ square 20″ x 12.5″ strip |
|
|
Medium Blue |
2 |
3″ WOF strip + strips 8″ -10″of various widths 1.75 to 2.5″ |
|
|
Deepest Blue |
3 |
3″ WOF strip strips 8-10″ of various widths 1.75 to 2.5″ |
|
|
Medium-Deep Blue |
8 |
4.5″ square |
I suggest you label your fabric so that you do not get confused as you cut so many strips. An easy way to do this is sticking a piece of freezer paper with the code on it on the strip!
For ease in piecing, you can cut and sort your fabric template wise as follows:
| Fabric Code | ABCD | EFGH | IJKL | MNOP | QRST | UVWX |
| 4 Orange | For diamonds 2 strips 2.5″ x 16″ | |||||
| 5 Gold | 4 HSTs 3.5″ | For diamonds 2 strips 2″ x 12″ | ||||
| 6 Light Orange | 4 HSTs 3.5″ | 4 HSTs 3.5″ | ||||
| 7 Yellow | 4 HSTs 3.5″ | 2 strips 1.75″ x 11″ for diamonds | ||||
| 1 Light blue | 4QSTs from 4.5″ square | 20″ x 12.5″ | ||||
| 2 Medium blue | 3″ x 19″ | 4HSTs 3″ | 4HSTs 3″ 4HSTs 2.5″ | 4HSTs 2.0″ 4HSTs 1.75″ | 4QSTs 3″ | |
| 3 Deepest blue | 3″ x 19″ | 4 HSTs 3″ | 4HSTs 3″ 4HSTs 2.5″ | 4HSTs 2.0″ 4HSTs 1.75″ | 4QSTs 3″ | |
| 8 Medium to deep blue | 4QSTs from 4.5″ square |
While I pieced with strips, I thought it would have made life much simpler had I cut the diamonds earlier. Note that the two sets of diamonds on each template face opposite directions, hence the 2 strips in the cutting instructions for the diamonds. Here is my fabric for the block, all cut and sorted.
1. Print the templates with your printer settings at 100% (or actual size).
2. Templates A to H are given in two parts each, with instructions to glue them. You could also piece these separately and then join at the centre seams. I have done that for the first two sets of templates, ABCD and EFGH.
3. Glue together the two parts of background Template U on the edge indicated. Use this to cut 4 identical pieces for U, V, W and X and put aside.
I suggest piecing alphabetically,that is first on the larger templates at circle edge. You can use scraps from the larger pieces on the smaller templates inside! Piece in the following order:
– A, B, C and D
– E, F, G and H
– I, J, K and L
– M, N, O and P
– Q, R, S and T
Templates A, B, C and D had been printed on freezer paper, without gluing on the centre line as indicated In the templates. Cutting the wedges became as simple as this…
All I had to do was to add the triangles on the wedges. (If you have glued your templates A,B, C and D between pieces #3 and #4, plese do not get confused by these photos!)
E, F, G and H were (each) also pieced in halves without gluing in the centre, and sewn together on the centre later, just before assembly.
For the rest of the templates, I pieced with strips, like I said, placing the strips perpendicular to each other as I went along.
A triangular piece comes in next, note, in the upcoming photo, that the blue strip was placed straight along the template for this seam between piece #3 and #4. This is followed by another diamond strip at right angles to the template. Use the other diamond strip for this!
After that diamond, there is only one more blue triangle to add and we are done!
Similarly, piece all the templates, I to P. Once you get the hang of it, it comes up really fast!
I did not take too many pics, but here are a couple of photos of the centre templates Q, R, S and T being pieced!
The scraps from the previous templates come in useful for the corners of the centre templates!
Use the Master Template (mirror image) as a guide to assembly. The Instructions file also contains a coloured mirror image guide.
I removed the paper before assembly.
Assemble the block in quadrants. But before you begin, lay them all together to see if all is in order, and of course, to admire!
( First, I sewed the respective template halves A to H. If you glued your templates before piecing you will not need to do this. )
I am ready for assembly now! I joined the outermost two templates A to E; B to F; C to G and D to H, and put them aside. (as I did not want to risk the wedges on the A, B, C and D templates getting misshapen.)
The rest of the templates, I joined from centre outwards. ( All templates at each ‘level’ are similar so it really does not matter whether you pick up M or N to join to Q, R, S or T!)
Here is the finished circle, from the back. Note that seams on adjoining quadrants are pressed in opposite directions, so that they interlock.
5. Done ! Now join the background. You can join the individual quadrants to the background pieces U, V, W and X and then join the 4 squares together to form the 18.5″ square.
I am not joining any of the circles to the background till all of them are done.
We begin putting the quilt top together in May, after the final sixteenth block comes up on 1st May.
Block 15 will be posted only on 16th April 2015 as I am travelling and am otherwise busy, so you have plenty of time to catch up, if you began late or are straggling behind on the blocks.
Meanwhile, do put in a comment if you like this block and are doing this quilt… and make my day! Please write in if you have a problem with the instructions, or if you discover a better way of piecing my blocks.
I would also love to see your blocks posted on my Facebook page Patchwork of My Life.
Okay, so we are all done here, except for one important thing, the block pattern and instructions! You need Adobe Acrobat on your computer ( available for free download) to be able to view these files.
1.Block 14 Fractal Mandala Instructions
2.Block 14 Fractal Mandala Templates
Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.
The Blue Aster is Block 11 of the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt. The 15″ pieced circle is inset in an 18″ ( finished) square.
The foundation paper pieced block is very quick to piece. The centre introduces inset or y seams for the first time in this BOM. The block was tested for me by the lovely Anuradha Ramesh, who also tested the Sapphire Fire block!
If you want the patterns of the previous ten blocks of this quilt, you can find all the links on my MadsPatch Ecwid Store. The Templates and Instructions for this block can be downloaded in printable pdf format from the links at the end of this post.
In the Dusk colourway, the block uses 4 shades of blue for the petals besides some small scraps of yellows and oranges.
| Fabric | For Petals | For Centre ( pieces# 3 & 4on I to L) | For Edges | |
| Light Blue |
1 |
2.25″ x 7.5″ ( 8 pieces) | ||
| Medium Light Blue |
2 |
2.25″x 6.5″ ( 8 pieces) | ||
| Medium Dark Blue |
3 |
2.5″x 7.5″ ( 4 pieces) | ||
| Deep Blue |
4 |
2.5″x 6.5″ ( 4 pieces) | ||
| Deep Orange |
5 |
1.75″ x 5″ | 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces) | |
| Light Orange |
7 |
1.75″ x 5″ | 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces) | |
| Gold |
8 |
1.75″ x 5″ | 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces) | |
| Yellow |
6 |
1.75″ x 5″ | 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces) |
1. Follow the step by step Instructions for best utilization of your fabric to piece templates A to H.
2. Piece templates I to L
3. Follow the Master template to join the templates as follows:
Join A to B; Join C to D; Join E to F; Join G to H. You can press seams open to reduce bulk. (I originally did, but then sewed a couple of them to one side with the next seam. I think I will never be able to sew with seams pressed open!)
We now encounter inset ot `y’ seams at the next step. You may refer to the step by step instructions if you are uncertain how to proceed.
Begin at the pointed end of the wedges, leaving ¼” for insetting seam to join AB to I at A1 ; join CD to J At C1, join EF to K at E1 and join GH to L at G1.
Now match the seams at the centre and join IAB to JCD.
Similarly, join KEF to LGH.
Finally join the two halves to make your full flower.
Applique the circle to an 18.5″ background square to complete your full block 11, Blue Aster. I recommend taking a larger square and trimming it to size.
For general tips on paper piecing for the blocks in this BOM, you can look at this post I published some time back.
Pin the Fabric#1 strips on the templates I, J, K and L and keep aside.
You may have noticed that we cut only 4 pieces of the medium and dark blue fabric, whereas they are used in 8 places each! One thing I hate about paper piecing is the amount of fabric one wastes. So, this is how I found a way out, without complicating the cutting instructions!
We `prepare’ templates A to H for piecing.
Pin the rectangular piece of Fabric#3 on piece A1, C1, E1 and G1, aligning one long edge of the fabric ¼” beyond seamline between piece#1 and #3 on the template(s).
Trim the excess fabric piece.
Pin the excess pieces of fabric at piece#1 on templates B, D, F and H.
Fold the template at seam line between pieces # 1 and #2 on all the templates A to H and trim the fabric beyond the seam line towards circular edge (adding ¼” seam allowance).
We are ready to start piecing templates A to H. Remember the wrong side of the fabric should touch the paper. Also, travel ¼” beyond the seam line when piecing.
Initially, I used strips of the yellow- orange fabrics to piece the small wedge to the `petals’, but later concluded that piecing with the 1.75″ x 2.5″ rectangles was more efficient and facilitated chain piecing. I am not giving a picture so that I can avoid confusion!
Chain piece all templates A to H up to piece #4.
Add the fifth piece only to templates A , C, E and G, aligning one edge of the fabric as we did for piece #1.
Now fold back the paper on the incoming seam line like in the picture below. Do not worry about the paper getting torn at the seam.
Trim, allowing for a ¼” seam.
This excess fabric piece will be used for piece#5 on templates B,D, F and H.
Add piece#6 on all the templates A to H. With this, templates B, D, F and H are pieced and can be kept aside. Proceed to finish piecing templates A, C , E and G; and I to J.
When piecing I to J templates: first sew the respective 1.75″ x 5″ strip at piece #3 on each of the templates. Trim off and keep the excess fabric piece for sewing at place#4 on the other templates as required.
Flip the pieced templates to the printed side and arrange the templates using the Master Template as a guide.
Pin templates A to B; C to D; E to F and G to H, taking care to ensure you have the right edges together…
…and sew. I pressed open the seams ( temporarily, as the final picture will confirm!), but you could also press them downwards, towards the edge.
Remove the excess paper from the seams.
We are ready to join AB to I, CD to J, Ef to K and GH to L.
Pin the edges on the alignment markers. Begin the seam, sewing from centre to edge, on the seam line, leaving the ¼” seam allowance at the top unstitched.
This is how it looks from the other side…
At the end of this, you will have 4 joined templates, IAB, JCD, KEF and LGH. We are ready to join these in pairs.
Again we begin sewing at the centre. If your centre looks good, the rest of the block looks good too!
Start sewing from the corner of the centre and stop short of the end by ¼” , just where the `petals’ begin.
Now align the `petals’ and sew down the straight edges out to the circumference.
One half is ready!
Similarly join the other pair KEF to LGH.
Now to join the two halves…again we begin at the centre, matching the centre seams, and leaving ¼” at both ends.
We are down the last two seams!
Turn it around!
Press the seams.
Flip over and admire your Blue Aster.
Applique your circle to a 19″ square. Trim to 18.5″ square.
You can click on the links below to purchase the pdf pattern for this simple block designed by me ( if anyone else has also had the same idea, my apologies for claiming it – as far as I know, it is an original!) .
For other Dreamcatcher Patterns, visit my online store, MadsPatch!
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