Southward Bound: The Off-Centre Mariner’s Compass Pattern

A Skewed Perspective on the Mariner’s Compass.

My Southward Bound — The Mariner’s Compass with a difference…

Like every other quilter, I also always had Mariner’s Compass on my bucket list!

So, when I was designing the Dreamcatcher Round the Year , I included it as the seventh block in the quilt, albeit a little different.

This off-centre Mariner’s Compass is a variation of the block, which is traditionally hand pieced or English paper pieced. However, this pattern employs a number of techniques, including foundation paper piecing, machine piecing and appliqué. It finishes at 18″ square, with a 15″ pieced circle.

The printable PDF files instructions and templates for the block are now available on my MadsPatch store on Ecwid.

BUY PATTERN HERE

The learning and inspiration for this block cane from this workshop…

The blocks were drafted on Quilt Assistant free software and I used Primo PDF to make the pdf templates.

Instructions

This is the Dusk colourway, the rays of the setting sun lighting up the needles on the right, as the darkness gathers from the East on the left. The name of the block came about as the pattern originally had a circle of geese , receding in size, flying upwards from both sides – I dropped them to simplify the design.

Fabric Requirement

Southward Bound Mariner's Compass Round the Year Quilt — Fabric Colour Code – Block Seven Southward Bound

Four shades of the main colour (blue) and four in a contrast colour way – yellow, gold, light and deep orange – are used here.

The fabric requirements given in my pattern are quite generous (according to me!), but you may want to cut fabric as you go along.

BUY PATTERN HERE

HOW IT WORKS

Please note that this in a digital purchase of a pattern, you will receive only a link to download the .PDF files on your computer/device. A paper pattern WILL NOT be mailed to you.

2. On purchase, you will immediately receive a mail confirming receipt of the order, followed by a second mail with download links. If you do not see the mails in your inbox, please check your Spam folder. Please do not click the links repeatedly as each click is treated as a download and number of downloads is limited.

3. It is advisable to access the files on your laptop or notepad where you can save them, rather than on your smartphone.

The links expire in 72 hours, so you would be well-advised to download the files on a permanent location on your PC/ Mac / Notepad asap.

4. You will need to download the software Adobe Acrobat Reader (free)at Adobe site to be able read the files.

5. Download the files on your device/ computer; do not print directly from the mail/ link. The patterns are designed for printing on A4 size paper, but letter size 8.5″ x 11.5″ will be fine. Set your printer to ‘Actual Size’ or 100 % setting before printing.

All patterns are for your, the buyer’s personal use only. Please do not share with others or use for teaching/ workshops etc without my prior permission! The files will include:

Instructions File – contains these instructions including the fabric requirement, piecing order and Master Template to be used as a guide for assembling the block.

Template File.1 containing paper piecing templates A to P . Print at actual size or 100% in portrait mode

Template File.2 containing templates Q to X and Z . I suggest you print these on freezer paper, if available, at 100% or actual size. These are odd shaped pieces with circular edges, and I personally like to use freezer paper for accuracy for cutting these.

Master Template

This diagram is the Master Template that will help you in assembling the block – remember this is is a mirror image. It is also included with the files. You can also try out your own colours on it.

Printing and Templates

I printed the templates on Freezer Paper.

If you don’t have freezer paper printer sheets, what do you do? Cut the freezer paper to your regular printer paper size (A4 or letter – approximately 8.5″ x 11″). Iron just the edges of the freezer paper (about ¼”) to a regular printer sheet, so that they are joined evenly, without any creases. Print as usual, taking care to insert the joined sheets in the printer so that the printing is on the freezer paper.

Piecing

The block is partly foundation paper pieced. I have blogged about the paper piecing patterns for this quilt earlier, and also given a few paper piecing tips here . In case you are too lazy to go through those ( I would be, I know!) here is a quick checklist before you begin! I also include a bonus with the pattern, these tips in a file you can print and keep with you always!

Paper Piecing Checklist

Have the fabrics been colour coded?
Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
Are the templates in order specified in the instructions?
Have you picked up the correct fabric pieces or strip/s? The fabric code number is printed on each piece position. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
When you start, is your piece #1 placed on position #1 on the templates?
Is the wrong side of the fabric piece touching the paper?
Is the incoming piece placed right sides touching the previous one?
If strip chain piecing the templates, have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Once done with the piecing, and before you start assembly, you may like to refer to this checklist!

Template Assembly Checklist

Have you a print out of the Master Template in front of you?
Avoid removing paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.
If you do remove the paper, ensure you have the template (alphabet) name pinned to wrong side of the pieced template, to guide you during assembly.
At all times, keep the printed/ wrong side up, pick up the templates to be assembled, (remove the paper, if you wish to) sew them together. Put back in place, wrong side up. Go on to the next. At all times, remember to keep track of template names

Refer to the Master template at all times during assembly to ensure all is in order! Reminder: If you take off the paper before assembly, remember to stick a post-it note or pin a piece of paper with the template name on the pieced template.

Before I sign off, here is a look at the Rainbow version of the block. The templates and instructions are available my Ecwid online store, Madspatch.

Buy SOUTHWARD BOUND PATTERN Here

Blue Aster – Block Eleven of the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt

The Blue Aster is Block 11 of the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt. The 15″ pieced circle is inset in an 18″ ( finished) square.

The foundation paper pieced block is very quick to piece. The centre introduces inset or y seams for the first time in this BOM. The block was tested for me by the lovely Anuradha Ramesh, who also tested the Sapphire Fire block!

If you want the patterns of the previous ten blocks of this quilt, you can find all the links on my MadsPatch Ecwid Store. The Templates and Instructions for this block can be downloaded in printable pdf format from the links at the end of this post.

BUY THE PATTERN

Fabric Requirement

In the Dusk colourway, the block uses 4 shades of blue for the petals besides some small scraps of yellows and oranges.

Fabric		For Petals	For Centre ( pieces# 3 & 4on I to L)	For Edges
Light Blue	1	2.25″ x 7.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Medium Light Blue	2	2.25″x 6.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Medium Dark Blue	3	2.5″x 7.5″ ( 4 pieces)
Deep Blue	4	2.5″x 6.5″ ( 4 pieces)
Deep Orange	5		1.75″ x 5″	1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Light Orange	7		1.75″ x 5″	1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Gold	8		1.75″ x 5″	1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Yellow	6		1.75″ x 5″	1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)

Printing Instructions

Print the Templates File with your printer settings at 100% or actual size in portrait mode.
Print and keep a copy of the Instructions File for ready reference.
Cut out the paper piecing templates.

Piecing and Assembly Instructions

1. Follow the step by step Instructions for best utilization of your fabric to piece templates A to H.

2. Piece templates I to L

The Master Template is a mirror image – the paper pieced block from the printed paper side!

3. Follow the Master template to join the templates as follows:

Join A to B; Join C to D; Join E to F; Join G to H. You can press seams open to reduce bulk. (I originally did, but then sewed a couple of them to one side with the next seam. I think I will never be able to sew with seams pressed open!)

We now encounter inset ot `y’ seams at the next step. You may refer to the step by step instructions if you are uncertain how to proceed.

Begin at the pointed end of the wedges, leaving ¼” for insetting seam to join AB to I at A1 ; join CD to J At C1, join EF to K at E1 and join GH to L at G1.

Now match the seams at the centre and join IAB to JCD.

Similarly, join KEF to LGH.

Finally join the two halves to make your full flower.

Applique the circle to an 18.5″ background square to complete your full block 11, Blue Aster. I recommend taking a larger square and trimming it to size.

BUY THE ASTER PATTERN HERE

Step by Step Instructions

For general tips on paper piecing for the blocks in this BOM, you can look at this post I published some time back.

It is a good idea to pin when handling large or unwieldy fabric pieces!

Pin the Fabric#1 strips on the templates I, J, K and L and keep aside.

You may have noticed that we cut only 4 pieces of the medium and dark blue fabric, whereas they are used in 8 places each! One thing I hate about paper piecing is the amount of fabric one wastes. So, this is how I found a way out, without complicating the cutting instructions!

We `prepare’ templates A to H for piecing.

Pin the rectangular piece of Fabric#3 on piece A1, C1, E1 and G1, aligning one long edge of the fabric ¼” beyond seamline between piece#1 and #3 on the template(s).

Pin for 1/4″ seam, letting the excess fabric hang out

Trim the excess fabric piece.

Pin the excess pieces of fabric at piece#1 on templates B, D, F and H.

Fold the template at seam line between pieces # 1 and #2 on all the templates A to H and trim the fabric beyond the seam line towards circular edge (adding ¼” seam allowance).

I have discovered that trimming to the seam allowance BEFORE piecing makes life easier!

We are ready to start piecing templates A to H. Remember the wrong side of the fabric should touch the paper. Also, travel ¼” beyond the seam line when piecing.

Initially, I used strips of the yellow- orange fabrics to piece the small wedge to the `petals’, but later concluded that piecing with the 1.75″ x 2.5″ rectangles was more efficient and facilitated chain piecing. I am not giving a picture so that I can avoid confusion!

Chain piece all templates A to H up to piece #4.

Add the fifth piece only to templates A , C, E and G, aligning one edge of the fabric as we did for piece #1.

Now fold back the paper on the incoming seam line like in the picture below. Do not worry about the paper getting torn at the seam.

Using one rectangle to piece two long triangles!

Trim, allowing for a ¼” seam.

This excess fabric piece will be used for piece#5 on templates B,D, F and H.

Add piece#6 on all the templates A to H. With this, templates B, D, F and H are pieced and can be kept aside. Proceed to finish piecing templates A, C , E and G; and I to J.

When piecing I to J templates: first sew the respective 1.75″ x 5″ strip at piece #3 on each of the templates. Trim off and keep the excess fabric piece for sewing at place#4 on the other templates as required.

TThis block is perhaps the quickest to cut and piece!

Assembly Instructions

Flip the pieced templates to the printed side and arrange the templates using the Master Template as a guide.

Pin templates A to B; C to D; E to F and G to H, taking care to ensure you have the right edges together…

Ensure you have the correct edges together!

…and sew. I pressed open the seams ( temporarily, as the final picture will confirm!), but you could also press them downwards, towards the edge.

Remove the excess paper from the seams.

It has been easy so far. Now comes some not-so-simple sewing!

We are ready to join AB to I, CD to J, Ef to K and GH to L.

Pin the edges on the alignment markers. Begin the seam, sewing from centre to edge, on the seam line, leaving the ¼” seam allowance at the top unstitched.

This is how it looks from the other side…

At the end of this, you will have 4 joined templates, IAB, JCD, KEF and LGH. We are ready to join these in pairs.

Again we begin sewing at the centre. If your centre looks good, the rest of the block looks good too!

Start sewing from the corner of the centre and stop short of the end by ¼” , just where the `petals’ begin.

Now align the `petals’ and sew down the straight edges out to the circumference.

You can start this seam from the corner, including the 1/4″ shown left unstitched in this picture. I went back and sewed that bit afterwards.

One half is ready!

There actually no points to match, so everything falls in place neatly!

Similarly join the other pair KEF to LGH.

Now to join the two halves…again we begin at the centre, matching the centre seams, and leaving ¼” at both ends.

Again, begin at the centre…this is the only time you have to match points!

We are down the last two seams!

… the final seams are down the petals to the circle edge.

Turn it around!

Press the seams.

Flip over and admire your Blue Aster.

Applique your circle to a 19″ square. Trim to 18.5″ square.

You can click on the links below to purchase the pdf pattern for this simple block designed by me ( if anyone else has also had the same idea, my apologies for claiming it – as far as I know, it is an original!) .

BUY ASTER PATTERN NOW

For other Dreamcatcher Patterns, visit my online store, MadsPatch!

Southward Bound – Block Seven of the Dreamcatcher Round the Year BOM Quilt

Which quilter does not have the Mariner’s Compass on her bucket list?

I have been in love with the block for ages; I had to include it as the seventh block in the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt!

The learning and inspiration for this block cane from this workshop…

…in this book

The blocks were drafted on Quilt Assistant free software and I used Primo PDF to make the pdf templates.

Instructions

This is the Dusk colourway, the rays of the setting sun lighting up the needles on the right, as the darkness gathers from the East on the left. The name of the block came about as the pattern originally had a circle of geese , recding in size, flying upwards from both sides – I dropped them to simplify the design.

Fabric Requirement

Four shades of the main colour (blue) and four in a contrast colour way – yellow, gold, light and deep orange – are used here.

The fabric requirements given here are quite generous (according to me!), but you may want to cut fabric as you go along.

Fabric Code		For templates A to H	For templates I to P	Wedges Q to X	Centre YZ
Fabric #1	Deep blue 6″ x 42″Cut more as you need it.	6″ squares for the two large wedges at D4 and E2.6″ HSTs and QSTs can be used for the other wedges.	Cut QSTs from two 6″ squares. Alternatively, you can use scraps.
Fabric # 4	Blue 5″ x 35″		Cut strip 5″x 25″ lengthwise to get 2 strips 2.5″ x 25″	Use (freezer) paper templates to cut the wedge pieces
Fabric # 5	Light to medium blue 5″ x 35″		Cut strip 5″x 25″ lengthwise to get 2 strips 2.5″ x25″	Use ( freezer) paper templates to cut the wedge pieces
Fabric #6	Pale blue 2.5″x 18″3″ square		18″ x2.5″		Cut circle using template Z
Fabric #7, 8, 9 and 10	2.5″ x 17.5″ strips each		2.5′ x 15″		2.5″ squares of each
Fabric # 1 and 2	For background cut 10″ x 19.5″ of each. Join along 19.5″ length to get a square 19.5″x 19.5″

BUY PATTERN HERE

Printing and Templates

After you buy the pattern, download the files from the links you receive in email in .pdf format. You would need Adobe Reader, available free online to read these files on your computer. The files downloaded will include three files, as follows:

Instructions File – contains these instructions including the fabric requirement, piecing order and Master Template to be used as a guide for assembling the block.

Template File.1 containing paper piecing templates A to P . Print at actual size or 100% in portrait mode

For printing on freezer paper, cut the freezer paper to your regular printer paper size (A4 or letter – approximately 8.5″ x 11″). Iron just the edges of the freezer paper (about ¼”) to a regular printer sheet, so that they are joined evenly, without any creases. Print as usual, taking care to insert the joined sheets in the printer so that the printing is on the freezer paper.

You also need to cut a 2″ radius/ 4″ diameter circle on freezer paper/ stiff paper/ card ( for template Y).

Note : The background template AA and AB are not given for this block, as the circle is appliquéd on to the square.

This diagram is the Master Template that will help you in assembling the block – remember this is is a mirror image. It shows you how your block will look from the printed paper side, not the fabric side, when assembled. It is included in the Instructions File.

Piecing

Paper Piecing Checklist

Have the fabrics been colour coded?
Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
Are the templates in order specified in the instructions?
Have you picked up the correct fabric pieces or strip/s? The fabric code number is printed on each piece position. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
When you start, is your piece #1 placed on position #1 on the templates?
Is the wrong side of the fabric piece touching the paper?
Is the incoming piece placed right sides touching the previous one?
If strip chain piecing the templates, have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Now to begin with the piecing!

For best use of fabric, piece templates in the following order:
D. E, F, G, H, I, A, B, C.
Beginning with the bigger templates, you will be able to use the trimmed off scraps of fabric #1 (deep blue here).
Piece templates I, J, K… to P.
Attach the wedges Q to A, R to B, S to C…. X to H using the Master Template below as guide.
Piecing the inner circle YZ: Use the 2.5″ squares of fabric 7, 8, 9 and 10 to make a 4-patch

Make a four patch. Dont worry about accurately matched centre.
Fold the fabric circle Z twice to find the centre. Match centres and applique it to the centre of the 4-patch, using your favourite method.
Applique inner circle on centre
Place card template / iron freezer template on wrong side of the fabric. Trim to size – remember to add the seam allowance! This makes the inner circle YZ.
Place card template, add 1/4″ seam allowance

Trim.

Assembly Instructions

Template Assembly Checklist

Have you a print out of the Master Template in front of you?
Avoid removing paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.
If you do remove the paper, ensure you have the template (alphabet) name pinned to wrong side of the pieced template, to guide you during assembly.
At all times, keep the printed/ wrong side up, pick up the templates to be assembled, (remove the paper, if you wish to) sew them together. Put back in place, wrong side up. Go on to the next. At all times, remember to keep track of template names!

For this particular block, assemble the outer circle A to X and then attach it to the background square AA-AB. Applique the inner circle YZ last.

Assemble as follows:

AQ to I; BR to J; CS to K…and so on, till HX to P.

Join the adjoining wedges, anticlockwise when looking from the wrong/ printed paper side as follows:

AQI to BRJ to CSK

DTL to EUM

FVN to GWO to HXP

On flipping over to right (fabric) side, this is how your partly assembled templates should appear.

Complete the assembly to form a ring…

Applique to the background square. Finally, appliqué the centre circle YZ and trim excess fabric from behind the appliqued circle if you like.

And we are done – the Mariner mastered!

Before I sign off, here is a look at the Rainbow version of the block. Remember, the templates and instructions can be purchased from my Ecwid online store Madspatch!

Please note that the downloadable patterns and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and are not available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

Buy SOUTHWARD BOUND PATTERN Here

Lollipop Candy – Block Six of the `Dreamcatcher Round the Year’ Quilt

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014 — Jaya Parker’s Test Block

Lollipop Candy is the sixth of the Blocks of the Month of the ‘Dreamcatcher Round the Year’ Quilt.

Like the previous blocks, this is also foundation paper and finishes at 18″ square with an inset circle of diameter 15″.

This block can be constructed, if you have the patience, by cutting and piecing over 350 rectangular pieces! But there are less tedious ways to make the block. There is the much simpler Bargello method; however, that involves a lot of fabric wastage and I have not yet tested it. So we will go with chain strip piecing for this block. Those of you who have pieced the Dahlia, Block One of this quilt, are familiar with the method.

This is designed in two colourways, here is the Dusk colourway, which uses 4 shades of blue fabric contrasted with orange and gold, with a touch of yellow to brighten up the proceedings, against a grey background.

I am using Fossil Fern by Bernatex as my fabric of choice.

Before you start cutting and piecing your fabrics, please read through the entire instructions – there are a few tips which may save you more than a little heartburn!

Printing Instructions & Templates

Please print the instructions file and keep at hand. I suggest you print at least pages 1 to 5 of the file for ready reference.
Print paper piecing templates (link at end of this post) at 100% or actual size in portrait mode.
Cut out the templates and place them in alphabetical order, in 4 sets:

A to F;

G to L;

M to R; and

S to X.
Note that there are the following pairs of identical templates, A-B; C-D; E-F; G-H; IJ and so on till W-X.
Y is the centre circle template.
Z is one of the four background templates, in 2 pieces. Glue together on line indicated. AA, AB and AC are identical to Z, hence templates for these are not provided. Use Z to cut 4 ‘squircle’ pieces from the background fabric.

Fabric Requirement and Cutting Instructions

Tip – Pin a scrap of your fabric of your choice in Column 2 below, for ready reference.

Starch and press fabric before cutting.

You may also need to cut a few strips or need some scraps besides the above. Cut as you go, would be my suggestion.

The above Master Template is a mirror image, used to assemble the paper pieced block templates.

Step by Step Piecing Instructions.

The piecing is chain strip piecing like we did for the Dahlia.

We begin with a reminder from the previous section; arrange the templates in 4 sets, in alphabetical order; as follows , A to F; G to L; M to R; and S to X.

Arrange the fabric strips in the following order and pin them. Keep aside with each template set, using the table here as a guide:

Template Set	Templates	Fabric Strip Set. (The number refers to the fabric colour code)
Set 1	A to F	8,6,4,2,5,3,7,6,4,2,5
Set 2	G to L	6,4,2,5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3
Set 3	M to R	2,5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3,7,6
Set 4	S to X	5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3,7,6,4

You may have noted that there are only 11 fabric strips in these sets, these will be used for Pieces# 1 to #11 in the templates. Pieces #12, 13 1nd 14 will be added after finishing this first lot of piecing on all 24 templates.

The piecing is chain strip piecing like we did for the Dahlia. I suggest we work with two sets at a time, to cut down trips to the ironing table and cutting mat. Piece the templates in alphabetical order.

Reduce the machine stitch length to between 1 and 1.5.

Chain piece the first two strips ( Fabric #8 and fabric #6) in Set1. And remember, right sides together, always!!!

This picture above shows your template set as it will look going under the needle. The pins are placed on the seam line for illustrative purpose only. Try to keep the seam consistent at about ¼”, move the template to adjust to the seam.

In the above picture you can see that A and B are identical. But, on template C, Piece#1 is staggered by one position away from outer curved edge (on your right) as compared to A and B. So when strip piecing, we stagger the template, and begin one step away from the outside edge! D is the same as C.

Again the position of Piece#1 on template E is further away from the outside edge when compared to Templates D and C, and you again need a change in position. F is identical to E.

Check Again!

Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
Are the templates in alphabetical order?
Have you picked up the correct fabric strip/s? Each piece position on the template carries the fabric code number. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
Is your strip #1 placed on position #1 on the templates? Is the wrong side of the strip touching the paper?
Is the incoming strip placed right sides touching of previous one?
Have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Once you have ticked this checklist, it is unlikely that you will need the services of The Ripper.

Chain piece the first two strips in Set2, again in alphabetical order, G,H, I, J, K and L. Here the first two strips are in fabric #6 and Fabric #4.

Take to your ironing table. Press on the seams to set.

Fold back the paper to expose the seam, and trim the seam to ¼” . Press open fabric strip.

Now, we cut apart the templates. Preserve all the scraps, they may be useful for piecing near the centre.

Don’t let the upcoming pictures confuse you, I had instructed my tester, Sobana,who has taken these photographs, to piece the templates from centre outwards. I changed the instructions here, because changing the piecing order ensures that there is sufficient space between templates. Your pieced block will be different from the pics below, as I have revised the design somewhat. But that is a story that deserves its very own blogpost.

Here you will see there is insufficient space between templates.

Another thing to remember, do not cut apart the templates without pressing open the strip!

Presuming you have everything in order, finish piecing the first two sets up to Piece/Position #11. Now it is the turn of sets 3 and 4. Piece these also for positions # 1 to 11.

Now judge what fabric scraps are left over. You may or may not need more strips. Cut as required and add piece #12 on all templates, working alphabetically. Refer to the colour guide, or the colour code on the template itself.

Position/ Piece#13 on all templates is the innermost piece, near the centre. Use the 2″ strip of Fabric #8 for Position12 on templates C, D, G, H, K, L, O, P, S, T, W and X.Scraps of Fabric#2 (Deep blue here) can be used for Templates A, B, E, F, I, J, M, N, Q, R, U, and V. Sew on piece #14 and our templates are done!

Assembly Instructions

Do not remove paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the 24 templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.

If you want to see if all is on order, pin each template to the adjacent one on the seam line and flip over as a whole. Flipping a template at a time can be confusing, as the Master template is a mirror image! My block tester friend tried it and was really upset, as this what she came up with!

So, at all times, keep the printed side up, pick up a pair of adjacent templates, remove the paper, sew them together. Put back in place, with the template name pinned on a piece of paper on each! Go on to the next pair. At all times, remember to keep track of template numbers!

I would suggest you finish the assembly in quadrants. Join quarter circles to the background squircles ( Square minus circle = squircle). Applique the centre circle the last thing!

Unless of course, you want to piece the whole circle, and appliqué the small circle in the centre. And then, appliqué the whole Lollipop Candy to a background square.

Please note that the downloadable patterns and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

You can purchase the pattern including the templates and instructions from my store. You need Adobe Reader to be able to download these.

1. Paper Piecing Templates, Lollipop Candy – Block Six of Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt.

2. Instructions (Fabric Requirememt, Cutting, Piecing & Assembly ) -Lollipop Candy – Block Six of Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt.

BUY NOW!

Evening at the Pond – Step by Step Piecing Instructions

This post seems to be jinxed! I wrote the whole post, to find that I had overwritten the assembly instructions. Those will follow in another post!

My laptop is back from the service centre with a new hard disk, but I am not able to locate all the pictures! So here are the step by step instructions for piecing the Evening at the Pond block, ( the second block in the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Block of the Month quilt) with the pictures for a few steps missing.

As you may recall, here also the finished block size is 18″ square with a 15″ inset circle. The block is paper foundation pieced before being assembled. This is a really easy block, though you may find piecing the flying geese a bit tedious! I know that I thought the Dahlia block was super easy to piece, not so easy to assemble. This one is really, really easy to assemble, it has no curves anywhere!

So here we go!

INSTRUCTIONS

Take print outs of the template.pdf file with your printer settings at 100% or actual size. Cut out the templates, leaving a little margin on all sides. You have the following templates:

8 arc templates numbered I to P for the outer ring of flying geese
8 triangular templates A to H for the inner ‘pond’
Template S in 2 pieces S1 and S2 for one quarter of the outside square.

Take a print out of the Instructions File and keep it hand.
Colour code the fabric you plan to use. Follow the instructions to cut the fabric. If your fabric is pre-starched, it gives a nice, crisp, neat finish to your final block!
Pin the cut fabric pieces to each template
using the colour code as a guide – I always do that or I get confused what goes where!!
Fabric pieces pinned to each template for ease in piecing
Piecing the Pond

The templates A, C, E and G are pieced from the outer edge to the centre and the alternate pieces B, D, F and H are pieced from the centre outwards.
The adjoining seams facing opposite directions ensures a nice `fit’ when the pieces are finally assembled.
Right sides together – ready to piece!
Unpin the two fabric pieces to be joined, place them on the wrong side of the template, keeping a seam allowance of ¼” approximately. The remaining two pieces are pinned back to the template so that they don’t get misplaced and mixed up!
I chain pieced the templates in alphabetical order, so that my chain looked something like this!
Chain piecing the ‘pond’…
My fabric pieces are not rectangles like yours will be – this is so that you do not make stupid mistakes like I did! Lesson learnt – Resist the temptation to trim the fabric pieces to size before you sew them!
Oops what was that???
Also remember to flip over your piece No 2 to ensure that it covers the entire section that it is supposed to! Or you may end up using the services of Jack the Ripper!
The perils of not placing fabric pieces correctly 🙁
One way to ensure that is to lightly fold the fabric piece to find the centre and do the same for the paper template, and match them when sewing. ( However, this is unlikely to happen to you, because I have made the pieces really long, with a lot of margin of error!
Now that all the 8 pond templates have the sections 1 and 2 pieced, we clip apart the templates and head to the ironing table. Trim seam allowance to ¼” if needed. You can just eyeball it and use your scissors to trim the seam – not necessary to use the services of a rotary cutter.
Press open piece 2; if your fabric is well starched and crisp, you may just finger press.
Seams trimmed to 1/4″ – pressing open the second strip
Similarly attach piece 3. Trim seam allowance to ¼” and press open the third piece.
Strip 3 sewn and pressed open
Attach piece 4, trim seam allowance to ¼” press open. Trim the excess fabric from the sides and our pond pieces are ready! That was really easy, wasn’t it?!
Hurrah! Pond pieced!

Do not get confused by this picture! I changed the pattern after I made this block, so your pond templates will add up to an octagon, not a circle!

Piecing the flying geese
The templates I to P will be pieced to make a ring of flying geese. Here chain piecing is not really possible, so this bit of piecing goes a bit slow!

Place the first rectangle for the goose (wrong side of fabric touching paper) so that the seam allowance between Goose 1 and Goose 2 extends about a ¼” beyond the seam line, like in the picture below.
Hold up the paper against light to ensure correct placement – 1/4″ beyond seam line
Place the half square triangle for Piece 2 with the longest side (hypotenuse) aligned to the seam allowance. You can hold it against the light to see that the piece extends approximately ¼” beyond the seam line. You can pin it like I have done. These two pictures show the two sides…
Piece 2 is also in order 🙂

The other side! The triangular sky is placed with the long edge on the seam line
Caution : The next few pictures are of a previous version of the block, so please do not get confused by the template numbers or order of piecing.
Sew on the seam line, extending your seam line to approximately ¼” beyond into the next section.
The seam line 1/4″ extends beyond the centre
Flip over and trim the excess fabric to leave a seam allowance of ¼” , press open.
Trim off excess fabric!
Similarly sew the other triangular `sky’ piece, going beyond the centre point, like was done for the previous piece. Now trim the seam allowance to ¼” and press open. The first goose is ready!
Piece 3 sewn , ready for trimming and pressing open
TIP – Before sewing the sky pieces, do remember to check the placement of the piece so that it covers the respective `sky’ section fully when pressed open. This is especially true of the sky pieces on the outer border of the ring.
Fold back the paper on the seam line between the just pieced section and the next – that would be the long line of Piece 4. You will need tear a bit of the paper here, to detach the top seam allowance from the paper. No worry!
Trim this seam allowance to ¼” on the just pieced portion.
Place the rectangle piece for the second goose, right side down on the just pieced section and sew. Press open. Continue to piece as in previous sections.
Here is a picture taken by Sobana, who tested the block!
Sobana’s arc under construction!
And here is a picture of the fully pieced template, trimmed to size
One arc done!
This is how it looks from the back! You can see how the seams extend into the adjoining section in the centre of the template.
Final trimming!
And here is the full ring of flying geese made by Sobana! Aren’t they pretty?
Ring of flying geese! Love it!

So all our templates are pieced!

Using the master template as a guide, arrange your templates and admire them!

The assembly instructions will be online soon, while you get cracking on this!

You can download the instructions and templates files here.

1. Paper piecing templates – Evening at the Pond ( Block Two of Round the Year Quilt)

2. Instructions (Dusk version) -Evening at the Pond ( Block Two of Round the Year Quilt)

You can access the pattern for the first block, Dahlia here.

Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

Like every other quilter, I also always had Mariner’s Compass on my bucket list!

Instructions

Fabric Requirement

HOW IT WORKS

Printing and Templates

Piecing

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Fabric Requirement

Printing Instructions

Piecing and Assembly Instructions

BUY THE ASTER PATTERN HERE

Step by Step Instructions

Assembly Instructions

It has been easy so far. Now comes some not-so-simple sewing!

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Which quilter does not have the Mariner’s Compass on her bucket list?

Instructions

Fabric Requirement

Printing and Templates

Piecing

Assembly Instructions

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Lollipop Candy is the sixth of the Blocks of the Month of the ‘Dreamcatcher Round the Year’ Quilt.

Printing Instructions & Templates

Fabric Requirement and Cutting Instructions

Step by Step Piecing Instructions.

Assembly Instructions

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