The (Almost) Fractal Mandala – Block Fourteen, Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt

I started designing Block Fourteen as a tribute to the Dear Jane quilt. I experimented with a number of the Dear Jane triangular blocks, placing them revolving around a centre point to make a circle. This design came about when I was playing (on the free Quilt Assistant software ) with the block where flying geese fly outwards. I immediately fell in love with it! It does have a hypnotic quality to it, like a Mandala you can meditate upon. Also, if you take each of those wedges and subtract the outer level, the design remains the same. So, I have been trying ( in vain) to convince the few mathematicians whom I know, that this pattern a fractal! As a concession to them, I call this the (Almost) Fractal Mandala.

And so, I present to you, Block 14 of the Round the Year Block of the Month Quilt, the (Almost) Fractal Mandala!

Much to my chagrin, I discovered after I had made the block, that a similar block ( I do not know the name) already exists! I am still very proud of it, because I discovered my Mount Everest on my own, and climbed it too! So there!

Block 14 ( Almost) Fractal Mandala, Round the Year Quilt

The block, like all other blocks of the BOM quilt, is designed as a 15″ circle inset in an 18.5″ ( unfinished) square. It is a deceptively easy block to piece, hence not too many photos accompany this post.

The templates and instructions can be downloaded from the links at the end of this post. You can find the links to patterns for all the other blocks of this quilt on the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt Page ( click on the link above).

The brilliant Tina Katwal, one of the pioneer quilters from India, took out time from her busy schedule to test this block and you have to thank her, that you do not struggle with stingy fabric requirements!

Fabric Requirement

The Dusk colourway uses 4 shades of blue and 4 fabrics in a contrasting yellow to orange range. I suggest you use use solids or very small prints combined with solids to best highlight the design element of the block. I have used Fossil Fern by Benartex for mine.

Fabric Code Block 14 Almost Fractal Mandala

This is a great block for using any scraps/ strips of various sizes and shapes left over from the previous blocks. Nevertheless, I have tried to give some kind of estimate of the fabric requirement.

Please spray starch and press all your fabric before cutting!

Fabric Colour		Code	Fabric needed
	Orange	4	2.5″ x 32″
	Gold	5	4″ x 19″
	Light Orange	6	3.5″ x 14″
	Yellow	7	3.5″ x18″
	Light Blue	1	4.5″ square 20″ x 12.5″ strip
	Medium Blue	2	3″ WOF strip + strips 8″ -10″of various widths 1.75 to 2.5″
	Deepest Blue	3	3″ WOF strip strips 8-10″ of various widths 1.75 to 2.5″
	Medium-Deep Blue	8	4.5″ square

Cutting Instructions

I suggest you label your fabric so that you do not get confused as you cut so many strips. An easy way to do this is sticking a piece of freezer paper with the code on it on the strip!

For ease in piecing, you can cut and sort your fabric template wise as follows:

Fabric Code	ABCD	EFGH	IJKL	MNOP	QRST	UVWX
4 Orange		For diamonds 2 strips 2.5″ x 16″
5 Gold		4 HSTs 3.5″	For diamonds 2 strips 2″ x 12″
6 Light Orange	4 HSTs 3.5″	4 HSTs 3.5″
7 Yellow	4 HSTs 3.5″			2 strips 1.75″ x 11″ for diamonds
1 Light blue					4QSTs from 4.5″ square	20″ x 12.5″
2 Medium blue	3″ x 19″	4HSTs 3″	4HSTs 3″ 4HSTs 2.5″	4HSTs 2.0″ 4HSTs 1.75″	4QSTs 3″
3 Deepest blue	3″ x 19″	4 HSTs 3″	4HSTs 3″ 4HSTs 2.5″	4HSTs 2.0″ 4HSTs 1.75″	4QSTs 3″
8 Medium to deep blue					4QSTs from 4.5″ square

While I pieced with strips, I thought it would have made life much simpler had I cut the diamonds earlier. Note that the two sets of diamonds on each template face opposite directions, hence the 2 strips in the cutting instructions for the diamonds. Here is my fabric for the block, all cut and sorted.

Templates

1. Print the templates with your printer settings at 100% (or actual size).

2. Templates A to H are given in two parts each, with instructions to glue them. You could also piece these separately and then join at the centre seams. I have done that for the first two sets of templates, ABCD and EFGH.

3. Glue together the two parts of background Template U on the edge indicated. Use this to cut 4 identical pieces for U, V, W and X and put aside.

Piecing Instructions

I suggest piecing alphabetically,that is first on the larger templates at circle edge. You can use scraps from the larger pieces on the smaller templates inside! Piece in the following order:

– A, B, C and D

– E, F, G and H

– I, J, K and L

– M, N, O and P

– Q, R, S and T

Templates A, B, C and D had been printed on freezer paper, without gluing on the centre line as indicated In the templates. Cutting the wedges became as simple as this…

You could also use ordinary paper printed templates... — You could also use ordinary paper printed templates…

All I had to do was to add the triangles on the wedges. (If you have glued your templates A,B, C and D between pieces #3 and #4, plese do not get confused by these photos!)

You can glue the two halves of the templates togeteher and piece them in one go!

E, F, G and H were (each) also pieced in halves without gluing in the centre, and sewn together on the centre later, just before assembly.

E, F, G and H pieced in halves... — E, F, G and H pieced in halves…you can glue the templates at centre between piece# 3 and #4 and piece these as single units!

For the rest of the templates, I pieced with strips, like I said, placing the strips perpendicular to each other as I went along.

Place the strip for the diiamond at right angles to the previous strip and sew on seam line

Covering the diamond... — Covering the diamond…

A triangular piece comes in next, note, in the upcoming photo, that the blue strip was placed straight along the template for this seam between piece #3 and #4. This is followed by another diamond strip at right angles to the template. Use the other diamond strip for this!

Note the blue strip for piece#4 is placed straight along template. The diamond yellow is again at right angles

After that diamond, there is only one more blue triangle to add and we are done!

Similarly, piece all the templates, I to P. Once you get the hang of it, it comes up really fast!

I did not take too many pics, but here are a couple of photos of the centre templates Q, R, S and T being pieced!

Templates Q, R, S and T ready for piecing... — Templates Q, R, S and T ready for chain piecing…

and done except for the corners ... fast work! — …and done, except for the corners! Fast work!

The scraps from the previous templates come in useful for the corners of the centre templates!

Assembly Instructions

Use the Master Template (mirror image) as a guide to assembly. The Instructions file also contains a coloured mirror image guide.

I removed the paper before assembly.

The Master Template is a mirror image! Left is right and right is left!

Assemble the block in quadrants. But before you begin, lay them all together to see if all is in order, and of course, to admire!

I love this! Piecing finished in one evening!

( First, I sewed the respective template halves A to H. If you glued your templates before piecing you will not need to do this. )

I am ready for assembly now! I joined the outermost two templates A to E; B to F; C to G and D to H, and put them aside. (as I did not want to risk the wedges on the A, B, C and D templates getting misshapen.)

The rest of the templates, I joined from centre outwards. ( All templates at each ‘level’ are similar so it really does not matter whether you pick up M or N to join to Q, R, S or T!)

Here is the finished circle, from the back. Note that seams on adjoining quadrants are pressed in opposite directions, so that they interlock.

As far as possible, press adjoining seams in opposite directions to interlock them when sewing ... ensures sharper corners! — As far as possible, press adjoining seams in opposite directions to interlock them when sewing … ensures sharper corners!

5. Done ! Now join the background. You can join the individual quadrants to the background pieces U, V, W and X and then join the 4 squares together to form the 18.5″ square.

I am not joining any of the circles to the background till all of them are done.

We begin putting the quilt top together in May, after the final sixteenth block comes up on 1^st May.

Block 15 will be posted only on 16^th April 2015 as I am travelling and am otherwise busy, so you have plenty of time to catch up, if you began late or are straggling behind on the blocks.

Meanwhile, do put in a comment if you like this block and are doing this quilt… and make my day! Please write in if you have a problem with the instructions, or if you discover a better way of piecing my blocks.

I would also love to see your blocks posted on my Facebook page Patchwork of My Life.

Okay, so we are all done here, except for one important thing, the block pattern and instructions! You need Adobe Acrobat on your computer ( available for free download) to be able to view these files.

1.Block 14 Fractal Mandala Instructions

2.Block 14 Fractal Mandala Templates

Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

Feathered Star , Block Thirteen of the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt

The Feathered Star

is one of the prettiest traditional star blocks. It looks deceptively difficult to piece, but comes together beautifully, everything falling in place just so! While drafting it for Block 13 in the Round the Year Quilt, I could avoid the ‘y’ seam altogether by a small change in the paper piecing pattern, making it easier still! Like all other blocks of this block of the month quilt, this also is drafted as a 15″ paper pieced circle and set in an 18″ (finished) square.

The templates and the Instructions for the Blocks can be downloaded from the links at the end of this post. You can access the patterns for the other blocks of this quilt from links on this page.

There are two template files, one containing the paper piecing templates. You may also wish to download individual templates for the background and other pieces , I worked with strips and rectangles.

Print the Templates Files with your printer settings on 100% or actual size, in portrait mode. One way to check if your templates are printing correctly is to check if the ¼” seam allowance is correct! Check that on a straight edge, not on a corner or a curve!

Cut out the templates.

Print the Instructions File and keep at hand; you can refer to this blogpost for step by step instructions with pictures.

Fabric Requirement

For the block in the Dusk Colourway, I have used 3 shades of blue ( other than the background) and 4 contrasting colours in the yellow-to- orange range.

I suggest you pin a slip of paper with the fabric code on your chosen fabrics. You could also press a small scrap of freezer paper with the code on the fabric. I also recommend starching your fabric crisply before cutting it.

Fabric	Fabric Code	Background*	Star	Feathers	Wedges*	Total pieces in block
Light blue	3	3 rectangles 10″ x 6″				3
Light-medium blue	2		2.5″ x 10″	2″ x 20″ (2 strips)	3.5″ x 20″	27
Medium blue	4			2″ x 20″ (2 strips)	3.5″ x 20″	30
Deep blue	1	3 rectangles 10″ x 6″	2.5″ x 10″			6
Yellow	8		1.75″ x 14″			6
Gold	5			2″ x 20″ (4 strips)		42
Light orange	7		3″ x 15″			6
Deep orange	6		3″ x 15″			6

* Cutting Instructions

NOTE: I have italicized the names of the templates after `Z’, to avoid confusion.

Background (Optional)

Use Templates AK, AL and AM (from the Individual templates File) to cut background in fabric#3. Label and keep aside.

Now use same Templates to cut Fabric#1 background rectangles, labeling them AN, AO and AP respectively.

You may want to appliqué the completed circle on the square. In this case, the option is to join the longer sides of two rectangles measuring 9.75″ x 19″ in fabrics #3 and #1 to make a square 19″ and put away till your circle is pieced.

Wedges

Cut as follows –

From the strip 3.5″ x 20″ of Fabric#2 cut and label as follows

3 pieces using Template AI for AI, Y and AA

3 pieces using Template AJ for AJ, Z and AB

From the strip 3.5″ x 20″ of Fabric#4 cut and label as follows

3 pieces using Template AI for AG, AC, AE ( Note – AI is identical to AG)

3 pieces using Template AJ for AH, AD, AF ( Note – AJ is identical to AH)

This is how I cut the wedges. I traced my templates AI and AJ on freezer paper.

I layered the two 3.5″ x 20″ strips of fabric #2 and #4, both wrong sides up. I pressed the freezer paper templates on the wrong side and cut the strips as shown in the pic below. If you do not have freezer paper, simply pin plain paper templates on the strips!

Cutting the wedges. Remember to keep the wrong side of the fabric UP when using printed templates which are mirror images!

Piecing Instructions

I like to sort the templates according to the shape and then colour coding ( if possible) for maximum efficiency and least confusion, before I start my piecing. This makes chain piecing simpler too, as the fabric can be stacked in piles in the correct order, accordingly.

General tips on paper piecing for these blocks have been given in this blogpost.

Piecing the Star

Strip chain piece the inner star in 4 lots .:

A, I and Q

E, M and U

B, J and R

F, N and V

Piecing the feathers

Sort the templates in 4 lots as follows.

C, G and W

D, H and X

K, O and S

L, P and T.

Note – I have provided an individual template for the diamond at the corner of the feathers. You may like to cut 6 diamonds and keep them aside before you start piecing the feathers.

After experimenting with strip chain piecing and rectangles, I tried the following method, which I found to be most efficient way to piece the feather row.

Trim the previous piece ¼” beyond seam line. Line up incoming strip parallel to the template. Sew on the seam line.

For sewing triangles facing opposite diections, line up the incoming strip so…

… as viewed from the printed paper side. Sew on seamline.

Open the strip. It will lie at an angle to the template.

The opened up strip covers the entire equal-sided triangle.

( This does not work with any triangles other than those where all three sides are equal, as in this case.)

Now trim the strip at the edge of the template. The triangular piece is fully covered …and a seam allowance is also available!

As viewed from the right side:

Once you get the hang of it, the piecing is quick!

Add the next strip as before.

It is better to work simultaneously on templates from each of the lots, as the direction of the ‘slant'( after cutting ) will alternate with each seam. The strips can be switched around accordingly.

Caution: When you reach the diamond ( piece #7) towards the end of templates D, H, L, P…etc, trim the strip after only covering the full diamond piece. As mentioned earlier, I have also provided an individual template for cutting the diamond pieces. You can use these ( instead of strips) when you reach this step.

Once the feathered rows are done, we are ready to assemble the block.

After the problems I had with Block Twelve, I `mock assemble’ the block at every stage to ensure all is proceeding well.

Assembly Instructions

This Master Template is used as a guide to assembly. Remember, it is a mirror image of the final block, which means it shows the block from the back (printed paper) side.

Step 1: Assembling the inner star ‘points’

Join A to B; I to J; Q to R;

Sew E to F; M to N and U to V.

Removing the paper makes this step easier, as the seams can be ‘locked’.

End of Step 1:

You end up with 6 pieced diamonds which will make up the inner star.

Step 2: Feathering the wedges

Sort the templates shapewise and then colourwise and sew the feather rows to the respective wedges. Just remember, the colour on the feathers and the wedges should be the same!

First the shorter feathered rows to the `blunt-edged’ wedges!

Sew W to AI ; C to Y; G to AA.

Sew K to AC; O to AE and S to AG

First join the feathers to the outer wedges.,,here are the blunt wedges joined to the ‘short’ feathers

Block 13 Feathered Star Assembly — The ‘blunt’ wedges with the ‘short’ feathers

Now the ‘pointy’ wedges to the longer feathered rows (with the diamonds)

Sew D to Z ; H to AB; X to AJ

Sew L to AD; P to AF and T to AH.

Here they are, all done! Did I tell you it is very important to press after each step?

..as is to arrange them again as per the final design to ensure there is no mix up anywhere!?

Step 3 : Joining the feathered wedges to the inner star ‘diamond shapes’

We are almost there, ready to give the inner star its feathers.

Sew AB to CY; EF to G.AA ; UV to W.AI

Sew IJ to K.AC; MN to O.AE and QR to S.AG

These look a mess! But just one more step and…

Step 4

I again arrange the templates assembled so far to ensure all is going well.

I am down to the last step that I will be doing for now!

Join ABCY to DZ; EFG.AA to H.AB; UVW.AI to X.AJ

IJK.AC to L.AD; MNO.AE to P.AF; QRS.AG to T.AH

And I am done!!

Our 6 star wedges are ready.

Final Assembly

This is a step I am skipping for now.

You could join the 6 wedges to complete your circle and appliqué it to 19″ square. Trim to 18.5″ after the appliqué.

Join to background pieces as follows, (referring to the star centre) before finally joining them:

Wedge with U to AK; wedge with A to AL; wedge with E to AM; wedge with I to AN; wedge with M to AO; wedge with Q to AP.

Join these along the straight lines follwing the Master Template to obtain your feathered star!

Some people have asked for the Master Template in colour.

Don’t forget to share your Feathered Star on my Facebook Page Patchwork of My Life! Click on the link on the right to like my page and gain access to it.

I must not forget to mention Prabha Mathew who tested the block for me and pointed out some errors in the original pattern, which I have tried to take care of! Thank you so much, Prabha 🙂

Have fun!

1. Block 13 Feathered Star Instructions including Fabric Requirement and Master Template

2, Block 13 Feathered star Paper piecing Templates Revised

3. Block 13 Feathered star Individual templates

Spiked Dresden – Block Eight, Dreamcatcher Dusk Round the Year Quilt

We are already halfway through in this Block of the Month quilt!?! This Spiked Dresden is the eighth of the sixteen blocks that will make up the Round the Year Quilt. The block is 18″ square with a 15″ inset circle, like the other blocks of this quilt,

When I was designing this quilt, I wanted to include all the blocks that I loved, but was too lazy to make a whole quilt with. One on that list was this Spiked Dresden that I encountered on pinterest. When drafting the block for the quilt, I modified it a bit, including the wedges on which the blade points rest. I also thought this was a great block to introduce you to foundation paper piecing with freezer paper. You can also piece it with regular foundation paper and even without a foundation paper piecing template. Complicated as it looks, this particular Dresden needs only as many seams as a regular Dresden! The blade, the spike and the wedge are all attached in one go. Those of you who are still apprehensive of attempting these blocks – this really is a piece of cake! This block was tested by fellow Desi Quilter Caroline Nagar and she had a lot of useful suggestions, which I have tried to incorporate here! Thanks, Caroline!

The downloadable Template files ( two this time) and the Instructions File can be found at the end of this post. So here we go!

Fabric requirement ( For Orange petalled Dresden)

Fabric	Blades	Spikes	Outer Ring	Centre	Background**
#1 Dark grey					11” x 13”
#2 Light Grey					11” x 13”
#4,5,6,7 Blues		4” x 10” each	2” X 17” each	8” square
#8,9,10,11 Yellow, gold, light orange, deep orange	5” x 18” each
**For background – Use 11” x 25” if using single fabric.
You could also use a 19.5” square ( will be trimmed to 18.5″ after appliquéing circle).

Cut all fabric strips from width of fabric.

Step by Step Instructions

Templates and Printing

Print the Instructions file.
Print the two templates files at 100% or actual size in portrait mode on A4 size freezer paper.

For printing on freezer paper, refer to this link.

Template File 1 :

For the Template A Circle, please add an additional ¼” seam allowance to make total of ½” seam allowance.

For the Template B (Pieced Dresden quadrant), cut exactly to size. Use a scale and score lines on the printed lines on the semi circular template with a paper knife or any sharp edged object, to get sharp creases at each seam. I used my trusted friend Jack (the Ripper) for this. Take care so that you do not tear the paper. Sobana of thequiltbug.blogspot.com recently used the freezer paper method for piecing the Dresdens in her quilt. She recommends needle punching the seam lines – I am quite happy with creases!

Important! We piece this Dresden using the freezer paper technique. If freezer paper is not available, regular foundation paper piecing may be done, in which case, you would need to print/trace the Template B to get 4 copies of it.

Template C (background) glue the two parts of the template on edge as indicated. You need four fabric pieces using this template.

Template File 2 –

Contains the templates D ( blade/ petal), E (spike) and F (outer ring piece).

Cutting Instructions

We cut:

6 petals/ blades from each of 4 fabric strips (5”x 18”) using Template D= Total 24
6 spikes from each of 4 fabric strips (4”x 10”) using Template E = Total 24
6 outer ring pieces (wedges at base of petal point ) from each of 4 fabric strips ( 2” x 17” ) using Template F= Total 24

Placing the freezer paper template to cut fabric... — Placing the freezer paper template to cut fabric…

I cut 4 layers of fabric using the rotary cutter. I pressed the freezer paper template to the top layer and cut the fabric so…

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.2 — Cutting through four layers of fabric – 6 times to get 24 spikes

You could iron the freezer paper templates D, E, F (for the petal/ blade, spike and outer ring piece) on card / stiff paper and cut it out to make sturdier, reusable templates.

Glue or iron the template to thisk card paper.

Or you could use template plastic to trace and make stencils!

For the Spikes

Use template E and cut like you did the petals. Press the pieces into half lengthwise, right side outside.

For the inner circle

A reminder! Cut a circle from the 8” square – use template A, add an additional ¼” allowance all around – the template gives only ¼” allowance and cut circle.

Template A - remember you need a 1/2" seam allowance — Template A – remember you need a 1/2″ seam allowance instead of the 1/4″ given here!

Background.

11” x 25” if using single fabric.

You could also use a 19.5” square ( will be trimmed to 18.5after appliquéing circle).

Piecing and Assembly

Preparing the Blades/ Petals

Here is a great tutorial I referred to – http://www.vanessachristenson.com/2013/02/v-and-co-how-to-make-dresden-plate.html. So if anything is unclear here, that is where I suggest you head!

Fold the petals lengthwise, right side inside and sew ¼” seam along the top edge.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.11 — Fold into halfway and sew 1/4″ seam to form the pointed blade.

Remember to lock your stitch when you begin and end each seam, if your machine gives you the option, or you may end up with what happened here.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.14 — Unlocking equals unravelling!

If your machine does not have the locking option, reduce the stitch length. I do not recommend a back-stitch, as it adds bulk.

Reduce stitch length to prevent unravelling.

2. You can chain stitch all the petals at one go!

Chain stitch the blades/ petals... — I chain stitched the blades/ petals…

...and garlanded my old Singer (circa 1935) with it! — …and garlanded my old Singer (circa 1935) with it!

Clip apart the blades. Trim the seam to about 1/6” and clip the `pointy’ corner.
Clip seam and point to reduce bulk and turn inside out
Turn inside out. Use a toothpick or even your embroidery scissors to get a nice point.

Use a toothpick to get a nice, neat `point'! — Use a toothpick to get a nice, neat `point’!

5. Now comes the last step in getting the blades ready for piecing. Press them to ‘centre the point’. Lightly crease the blade on the vertical centre line as shown and align the centre seam line with it. Press ( not iron). A bit of spray starch does great here.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.19 — Align the `point’ with the centre line.

Preparing the Spikes

Fold the spikes along the central vertical `spine’, right side outside, aligning the longer edges. I do not recommend using your iron, you do not want a crease down the centre.

Piecing with Freezer Paper Template B

Arrange all the petals, spikes and wedges in a circle for an auditioning. I am sorry I forgot to take a picture of this stage!

Mirror Image of the block to aid in freezer paper piecing.

Any kind of foundation paper piecing can be confusing, as the final picture is a mirror image of what you began piecing with! I had this mirror image of my block to help me along the way!

Decide on a starting point, label the Blade#1, and start piecing anti-clockwise, if you are looking at the mirror image.

2. Now use the freezer paper template ( also used earlier) to piece the Dresden quarters. I find that using a template takes out the guesswork from piecing a Dresden – I needed sometimes 21 and at other times only 18 petals for a 20-petal Dresden, when I did not use paper piecing. The block lies flat and neat with this technique!

Remember we have to include the folded spike fabric at each seam, matching at the edge at the inner ( smaller) circle of the paper template. I used this turorial http://laren.blogspot.in/2012/04/tutorial-tuesday-spike-dresden-plate.html for adding the spikes.

3. Place the fabric pieces in this order on B1 section of the piecing template.
First – Template E #1 right side up at outer edge of template. Press down to freezer paper.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden. — Press wedge piece #1 on outer edge of B1. I have used a rectangle – you will be using Template F to get the pieces

Second – Blade #1 right side up, aligned at inner edge of template. The blade point should be about ¼” inside the edge of paper, at the final seam line.
Press on to freezer paper.

Third– Spike#1. Aligned at inner edge of template. The spike will stick out beyond the paper edge by about a ¼”. Pin to hold in place temporarily.

Fourth – Blade #2 face down, aligned over blade#1. Repin as shown.

Fifth – Wedge #2 comes face down, aligned over wedge #1.

Wedge #2 , wrong side up, aligned on Wedge#1 makes the fifth piece to line up on B1.

Pin to hold everything in place. Fold away the freezer paper at crease ( seam line beteen B1 and B2) line, turn over.

Repin from this side, if you like. You will have ¼” seam allowance visible beyond the paper.

sew in 1/4" seam allowance visible beyond folded freezer paper template. — Sew in 1/4″ seam allowance visible beyond folded freezer paper template.

Sew just along the edge of the paper, taking care not to stitch over the paper. Trim the seam to ¼”.

Trim the seam to 1/4" (No, the fabric did not change colour - it is a different piece!) — Trim the seam to 1/4″ (No, the fabric did not change colour – it is a different piece!)

.Peel away the freezer paper and press open the seam.

You would not be able to press open the seam if piecing with regular foundation paper; this is one of the advantages of freezer paper piecing that I love!

Now press the pieced portion back on to the freezer paper. Press the spike open, so that it is centred between the two blades as below.

We are now ready to add the next pieces.

Note: If not using freezer paper, just sew on seam line on printed side of paper, as usual (without creasing, folding away the template.)

4. Place Spike #2 in place – it has to stick out beyond edge of paper!

… Follow with blade #3 aligned with blade #2. Pin in place…

Blade #3 aligned on top of Blade #2, right sides together.

…and finally wedge #3. Flip around and sew.

Sew along paper edge as for the first two blades.

Again trim and press open seam. Press down on freezer paper.

5. Join the next three pieces – Spike #3, Blade#4 and wedge #4.

6. Join 2 more sets, till Spike #5, Blade#6 and wedge #6.

7. Press and trim all sides to size, before you remove the freezer paper Template B totally.

8. Pin a post it note on Spike #6 with its name, and set it aside!

So one quadrant is pieced!

9. Now , we are ready to piece the 2^nd quadrant. Proceed as for Quadrant 1. Before removing the freezer paper, sew Spike #6 in place between Quadrant 1 and Quadrant2, to get a semi circular ring. Put aside Spike #12

The freezer paper template is reusable. But if you are piecing with regular printer paper, you need fresh templates for each of the other three quadrants.

Halfway stage in piecing the Dresden. Note the two spikes set aside ( in centre). They will join quadrants 3-4 and 4-1 respectively.

10. Similarly piece Quadrants 3 and attach Spike# 12 between Seme-circle1-2 and Quadrant 3..

11. Finally piece Quadrant #4 and add spike #24 between the last blade (#24) and Blade#1 from the first quadrant to complete your ring!

Assembly

Applique the ring to your background.

Finally add the centre circle in place. The simplest way to do this is: Machine tack ( largest stitch setting) about 1/8 to 1/6” inside edge of the fabric circle, leaving a long length of thread on either side. Trim your template B to the seam line and iron it to the centre of the fabric. Now pull the thread to gather the fabric nicely over the paper circle. You have a perfect 7” circle. Pin in place over the centre of your block and appliqué by hand or machine. Trim away the background fabric behind the centre, and remove the freezer paper.

Here are the downloadable .pdf files with the instructions and templates. You need Adobe Reader (available for free online) on your computer, to be able to view these files.

1. Instructions Spiked Dresden Block08 of the Round the Year Quilt

2. Template File 1 Spiked Dresden Block08 of the Round the Year Quilt

3. Template File 2 Spiked Dresden Block08 of the Round the Year Quilt

You can access the links to the other blocks from this quilt here.

Southward Bound – Block Seven of the Dreamcatcher Round the Year BOM Quilt

Which quilter does not have the Mariner’s Compass on her bucket list?

I have been in love with the block for ages; I had to include it as the seventh block in the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt!

This off-centre Mariner’s Compass is a variation of the block, which is traditionally hand pieced or English paper pieced. However, this pattern employs a number of techniques, including foundation paper piecing, machine piecing and appliqué. It finishes at 18″ square, with a 15″ pieced circle. The printable pdf files instructions and templates for the block are now available on my MadsPatch store on Ecwid.

The learning and inspiration for this block cane from this workshop…

…in this book

The blocks were drafted on Quilt Assistant free software and I used Primo PDF to make the pdf templates.

Instructions

This is the Dusk colourway, the rays of the setting sun lighting up the needles on the right, as the darkness gathers from the East on the left. The name of the block came about as the pattern originally had a circle of geese , recding in size, flying upwards from both sides – I dropped them to simplify the design.

Fabric Requirement

Southward Bound Mariner's Compass Round the Year Quilt — Fabric Colour Code – Block Seven Southward Bound

Four shades of the main colour (blue) and four in a contrast colour way – yellow, gold, light and deep orange – are used here.

The fabric requirements given here are quite generous (according to me!), but you may want to cut fabric as you go along.

Fabric Code		For templates A to H	For templates I to P	Wedges Q to X	Centre YZ
Fabric #1	Deep blue 6″ x 42″Cut more as you need it.	6″ squares for the two large wedges at D4 and E2.6″ HSTs and QSTs can be used for the other wedges.	Cut QSTs from two 6″ squares. Alternatively, you can use scraps.
Fabric # 4	Blue 5″ x 35″		Cut strip 5″x 25″ lengthwise to get 2 strips 2.5″ x 25″	Use (freezer) paper templates to cut the wedge pieces
Fabric # 5	Light to medium blue 5″ x 35″		Cut strip 5″x 25″ lengthwise to get 2 strips 2.5″ x25″	Use ( freezer) paper templates to cut the wedge pieces
Fabric #6	Pale blue 2.5″x 18″3″ square		18″ x2.5″		Cut circle using template Z
Fabric #7, 8, 9 and 10	2.5″ x 17.5″ strips each		2.5′ x 15″		2.5″ squares of each
Fabric # 1 and 2	For background cut 10″ x 19.5″ of each. Join along 19.5″ length to get a square 19.5″x 19.5″

BUY PATTERN HERE

Printing and Templates

After you buy the pattern, download the files from the links you receive in email in .pdf format. You would need Adobe Reader, available free online to read these files on your computer. The files downloaded will include three files, as follows:

Instructions File – contains these instructions including the fabric requirement, piecing order and Master Template to be used as a guide for assembling the block.

Template File.1 containing paper piecing templates A to P . Print at actual size or 100% in portrait mode

Template File.2 containing templates Q to X and Z . I suggest you print these on freezer paper, if available, at 100% or actual size. These are odd shaped pieces with circular edges, and I personally like to use freezer paper for accuracy for cutting these.

For printing on freezer paper, cut the freezer paper to your regular printer paper size (A4 or letter – approximately 8.5″ x 11″). Iron just the edges of the freezer paper (about ¼”) to a regular printer sheet, so that they are joined evenly, without any creases. Print as usual, taking care to insert the joined sheets in the printer so that the printing is on the freezer paper.

You also need to cut a 2″ radius/ 4″ diameter circle on freezer paper/ stiff paper/ card ( for template Y).

Note : The background template AA and AB are not given for this block, as the circle is appliquéd on to the square.

This diagram is the Master Template that will help you in assembling the block – remember this is is a mirror image. It shows you how your block will look from the printed paper side, not the fabric side, when assembled. It is included in the Instructions File.

Piecing

The block is partly foundation paper pieced. I have blogged about the paper piecing patterns for this quilt earlier, and also given a few paper piecing tips here . In case you are too lazy to go through those ( I would be, I know!) here is a quick checklist before you begin!

Paper Piecing Checklist

Have the fabrics been colour coded?
Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
Are the templates in order specified in the instructions?
Have you picked up the correct fabric pieces or strip/s? The fabric code number is printed on each piece position. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
When you start, is your piece #1 placed on position #1 on the templates?
Is the wrong side of the fabric piece touching the paper?
Is the incoming piece placed right sides touching the previous one?
If strip chain piecing the templates, have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Now to begin with the piecing!

For best use of fabric, piece templates in the following order:
D. E, F, G, H, I, A, B, C.
Beginning with the bigger templates, you will be able to use the trimmed off scraps of fabric #1 (deep blue here).
Piece templates I, J, K… to P.
Attach the wedges Q to A, R to B, S to C…. X to H using the Master Template below as guide.
Piecing the inner circle YZ: Use the 2.5″ squares of fabric 7, 8, 9 and 10 to make a 4-patch

Make a four patch. Dont worry about accurately matched centre.
Fold the fabric circle Z twice to find the centre. Match centres and applique it to the centre of the 4-patch, using your favourite method.
Applique inner circle on centre
Place card template / iron freezer template on wrong side of the fabric. Trim to size – remember to add the seam allowance! This makes the inner circle YZ.
Place card template, add 1/4″ seam allowance

Trim.

Assembly Instructions

Template Assembly Checklist

Have you a print out of the Master Template in front of you?
Avoid removing paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.
If you do remove the paper, ensure you have the template (alphabet) name pinned to wrong side of the pieced template, to guide you during assembly.
At all times, keep the printed/ wrong side up, pick up the templates to be assembled, (remove the paper, if you wish to) sew them together. Put back in place, wrong side up. Go on to the next. At all times, remember to keep track of template names!

For this particular block, assemble the outer circle A to X and then attach it to the background square AA-AB. Applique the inner circle YZ last.

Refer to the Master template at all times during assembly to ensure all is in order! Reminder: If you take off the paper before assembly, remember to stick a post-it note or pin a piece of paper with the template name on the pieced template.

Assemble as follows:

AQ to I; BR to J; CS to K…and so on, till HX to P.

Join the adjoining wedges, anticlockwise when looking from the wrong/ printed paper side as follows:

AQI to BRJ to CSK

DTL to EUM

FVN to GWO to HXP

On flipping over to right (fabric) side, this is how your partly assembled templates should appear.

Complete the assembly to form a ring…

Applique to the background square. Finally, appliqué the centre circle YZ and trim excess fabric from behind the appliqued circle if you like.

And we are done – the Mariner mastered!

Before I sign off, here is a look at the Rainbow version of the block. Remember, the templates and instructions can be purchased from my Ecwid online store Madspatch!

Please note that the downloadable patterns and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and are not available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

Buy SOUTHWARD BOUND PATTERN Here

Lollipop Candy – Block Six of the `Dreamcatcher Round the Year’ Quilt

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014 — Jaya Parker’s Test Block

Lollipop Candy is the sixth of the Blocks of the Month of the ‘Dreamcatcher Round the Year’ Quilt.

Like the previous blocks, this is also foundation paper and finishes at 18″ square with an inset circle of diameter 15″.

This block can be constructed, if you have the patience, by cutting and piecing over 350 rectangular pieces! But there are less tedious ways to make the block. There is the much simpler Bargello method; however, that involves a lot of fabric wastage and I have not yet tested it. So we will go with chain strip piecing for this block. Those of you who have pieced the Dahlia, Block One of this quilt, are familiar with the method.

This is designed in two colourways, here is the Dusk colourway, which uses 4 shades of blue fabric contrasted with orange and gold, with a touch of yellow to brighten up the proceedings, against a grey background.

I am using Fossil Fern by Bernatex as my fabric of choice.

Before you start cutting and piecing your fabrics, please read through the entire instructions – there are a few tips which may save you more than a little heartburn!

Printing Instructions & Templates

Please print the instructions file and keep at hand. I suggest you print at least pages 1 to 5 of the file for ready reference.
Print paper piecing templates (link at end of this post) at 100% or actual size in portrait mode.
Cut out the templates and place them in alphabetical order, in 4 sets:

A to F;

G to L;

M to R; and

S to X.
Note that there are the following pairs of identical templates, A-B; C-D; E-F; G-H; IJ and so on till W-X.
Y is the centre circle template.
Z is one of the four background templates, in 2 pieces. Glue together on line indicated. AA, AB and AC are identical to Z, hence templates for these are not provided. Use Z to cut 4 ‘squircle’ pieces from the background fabric.

Fabric Requirement and Cutting Instructions

Tip – Pin a scrap of your fabric of your choice in Column 2 below, for ready reference.

Starch and press fabric before cutting.

You may also need to cut a few strips or need some scraps besides the above. Cut as you go, would be my suggestion.

The above Master Template is a mirror image, used to assemble the paper pieced block templates.

Step by Step Piecing Instructions.

The piecing is chain strip piecing like we did for the Dahlia.

We begin with a reminder from the previous section; arrange the templates in 4 sets, in alphabetical order; as follows , A to F; G to L; M to R; and S to X.

Arrange the fabric strips in the following order and pin them. Keep aside with each template set, using the table here as a guide:

Template Set	Templates	Fabric Strip Set. (The number refers to the fabric colour code)
Set 1	A to F	8,6,4,2,5,3,7,6,4,2,5
Set 2	G to L	6,4,2,5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3
Set 3	M to R	2,5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3,7,6
Set 4	S to X	5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3,7,6,4

You may have noted that there are only 11 fabric strips in these sets, these will be used for Pieces# 1 to #11 in the templates. Pieces #12, 13 1nd 14 will be added after finishing this first lot of piecing on all 24 templates.

The piecing is chain strip piecing like we did for the Dahlia. I suggest we work with two sets at a time, to cut down trips to the ironing table and cutting mat. Piece the templates in alphabetical order.

Reduce the machine stitch length to between 1 and 1.5.

Chain piece the first two strips ( Fabric #8 and fabric #6) in Set1. And remember, right sides together, always!!!

This picture above shows your template set as it will look going under the needle. The pins are placed on the seam line for illustrative purpose only. Try to keep the seam consistent at about ¼”, move the template to adjust to the seam.

In the above picture you can see that A and B are identical. But, on template C, Piece#1 is staggered by one position away from outer curved edge (on your right) as compared to A and B. So when strip piecing, we stagger the template, and begin one step away from the outside edge! D is the same as C.

Again the position of Piece#1 on template E is further away from the outside edge when compared to Templates D and C, and you again need a change in position. F is identical to E.

Check Again!

Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
Are the templates in alphabetical order?
Have you picked up the correct fabric strip/s? Each piece position on the template carries the fabric code number. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
Is your strip #1 placed on position #1 on the templates? Is the wrong side of the strip touching the paper?
Is the incoming strip placed right sides touching of previous one?
Have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Once you have ticked this checklist, it is unlikely that you will need the services of The Ripper.

Chain piece the first two strips in Set2, again in alphabetical order, G,H, I, J, K and L. Here the first two strips are in fabric #6 and Fabric #4.

Take to your ironing table. Press on the seams to set.

Fold back the paper to expose the seam, and trim the seam to ¼” . Press open fabric strip.

Now, we cut apart the templates. Preserve all the scraps, they may be useful for piecing near the centre.

Don’t let the upcoming pictures confuse you, I had instructed my tester, Sobana,who has taken these photographs, to piece the templates from centre outwards. I changed the instructions here, because changing the piecing order ensures that there is sufficient space between templates. Your pieced block will be different from the pics below, as I have revised the design somewhat. But that is a story that deserves its very own blogpost.

Here you will see there is insufficient space between templates.

Another thing to remember, do not cut apart the templates without pressing open the strip!

Presuming you have everything in order, finish piecing the first two sets up to Piece/Position #11. Now it is the turn of sets 3 and 4. Piece these also for positions # 1 to 11.

Now judge what fabric scraps are left over. You may or may not need more strips. Cut as required and add piece #12 on all templates, working alphabetically. Refer to the colour guide, or the colour code on the template itself.

Position/ Piece#13 on all templates is the innermost piece, near the centre. Use the 2″ strip of Fabric #8 for Position12 on templates C, D, G, H, K, L, O, P, S, T, W and X.Scraps of Fabric#2 (Deep blue here) can be used for Templates A, B, E, F, I, J, M, N, Q, R, U, and V. Sew on piece #14 and our templates are done!

Assembly Instructions

Do not remove paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the 24 templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.

If you want to see if all is on order, pin each template to the adjacent one on the seam line and flip over as a whole. Flipping a template at a time can be confusing, as the Master template is a mirror image! My block tester friend tried it and was really upset, as this what she came up with!

So, at all times, keep the printed side up, pick up a pair of adjacent templates, remove the paper, sew them together. Put back in place, with the template name pinned on a piece of paper on each! Go on to the next pair. At all times, remember to keep track of template numbers!

I would suggest you finish the assembly in quadrants. Join quarter circles to the background squircles ( Square minus circle = squircle). Applique the centre circle the last thing!

Unless of course, you want to piece the whole circle, and appliqué the small circle in the centre. And then, appliqué the whole Lollipop Candy to a background square.

Please note that the downloadable patterns and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

You can purchase the pattern including the templates and instructions from my store. You need Adobe Reader to be able to download these.

1. Paper Piecing Templates, Lollipop Candy – Block Six of Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt.

2. Instructions (Fabric Requirememt, Cutting, Piecing & Assembly ) -Lollipop Candy – Block Six of Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt.

BUY NOW!

Fabric Requirement

Cutting Instructions

Templates

Piecing Instructions

Assembly Instructions

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The Feathered Star

Fabric Requirement

* Cutting Instructions

Piecing Instructions

Assembly Instructions

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Fabric requirement ( For Orange petalled Dresden)

Step by Step Instructions

Templates and Printing

Cutting Instructions

Piecing and Assembly

Preparing the Blades/ Petals

Preparing the Spikes

Piecing with Freezer Paper Template B

Assembly

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Which quilter does not have the Mariner’s Compass on her bucket list?

Instructions

Fabric Requirement

Printing and Templates

Piecing

Assembly Instructions

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Lollipop Candy is the sixth of the Blocks of the Month of the ‘Dreamcatcher Round the Year’ Quilt.

Printing Instructions & Templates

Fabric Requirement and Cutting Instructions

Step by Step Piecing Instructions.

Assembly Instructions

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