Reblogging Clouds and Shadows – with Fabric Requirements

Hello! Hope you are having a great day. I realized that I had not given the fabric requirement for the background for Layout Option #1 ! So I am re-blogging the post with the measurements. But before that I would love to share with you the quilt as originally planned – only a few of these blocks made the final cut! Are there any that you would like to see in the final quilt?

Original Round the Year Quilt
Original Round the Year Quilt

 

 

I have been trying out various options for the Dusk Round the Year Quilt! I will show you one option in each of the next few posts and include patterns for sashings and borders. The next block, Block # 5, will be posted only on 15th October. In the first two weeks of October, you can catch up with pending blocks, set your circles in squares, ready the borders, sashing, binding etc! Or, if you want to `quilt as you go’ the first four blocks, perhaps you can start on that!

I will post these so that you can decide which one you want to do. Of course, each of the 16 blocks will be different, but you get the general idea!

Round the Year -Dusk (Shadows) Layout Option 1

This is one option I really like. In this layout, the interplay of dark and light grey in the background brings alive the theme of dusk falling. The blocks are simply joined together and a thin 1.5″ dark grey border and binding frames the blocks, making it up to a comfortable 75″ square size.

Here is how the Rainbow Quilt will look, in the same layout…

Round the Year Quilt Rainbow (Clouds) -Layout Option 1

 

Fabric Requirement

So now to the fabric requirement for these blocks! This will depend on the method you use to set the circles in the blocks.

There are several ways of setting the 15″ pieced circles in the 18″ background squares, each with a different fabric requirement. As I calculate, there are 4 centre blocks set in bright coloured fabric. The remaining 12 are half and half. I am presuming the border and binding will be in the darker coloured fabric. In case you decide to use different fabric for borders and binding, the calculations for that are also included in the charts.

Appliqueing the circles to the squares

You may choose to piece the whole circle and appliqué it to a background square using your favourite method. The fabric requirement for the background, borders and binding is given in this chart.

Fabric Requirement -Round the Year Option 1 – if you are appliqueing full circles on 18″ squares

The poplin that one uses for solids here in India is about 35″-36″ ; after removing selvedges, the usable width is just about 34″, which is what I have used for the calculations. The fabric is available in metres, hence the metrage… Another column gives the requirement in yards for regular 42″-44″ width.

I decided to use the Bamboo App on my ipad to share with you how I would cut my fabric if I were doing this Shadows/ Clouds option. Forgive the untidiness.

Fabric Requirement -Round the Year
Fabric Requirement -Round the Year

 

  • If using 42″ width dark fabric, it is suggested you cut a panel 18″ x 80″ for the borders and binding, before you start cutting the fabric for the background squares. Cut four strips each of 2″ and 2.5″ from this panel.
  • If using the smaller width fabric, first cut the two 21″ squares and eight rectangles 10″x 19.5″ along the length and then assess how much width is left over. You may need to cut strips along the width of fabric too – remember, you require a total of about 2″x300″ for the borders and 2.5″x 320″ for the binding.

Preparing the background squares for applique:

For the 4 centre blocks: Use the 19.5″ square from the bright fabric

For the 4 corner blocks: Use the two 21″ squares from each of the two fabrics to make HSTs and trim them to 19.5″.

For the 8 remaining blocks : Pair one rectangle 19.5″ x 10″ from each of the fabrics to make a square 19.5″ x 19.5″. Make 8 such squares.

For your convenience, I have given a template for a (quarter) circle with 7.5″ radius (without any added seam allowance). This Template D is downloadable from the link at the end of this post.

Piecing the background to the circle

The block patterns published so far have each included templates and instructions for the background.

There are basically three templates used for the background. These can be downloaded from either the respective block pattern, or even from the link at the end of this post.

In the Dahlia and Card trick blocks, the circle is pieced into halves and joined to 2 of Template C sewn together. In the Sapphire Block, I suggested you join Templates A and B to 1/8 circle wedges.

Here are the fabric requirements (for the whole quilt ) and cutting instructions if you will be piecing the blocks.

Fabric Requirement – Round the Year – Layout Option1, if you are piecing the background for the blocks

This is how I suggest you cut the fabric.( I used quiltassistant free software for this).

For best use of fabric, I have suggested you cut the binding and border strips from the length of fabric if using the 42″-44″ width and from the width of fabric if using the shorter width.

I think that takes care of everything. (It took me three days to write this post, what with all these charts and calculations and diagrams!) Everything except the promised templates.

7.5″ radius circle template

Background Templates for piecing

Fabric Requirement Clouds and Shadows – Round the Year -Layout Option 1

While all my Dreamcatcher patterns are free and will continue to remain so, may I request you to visit the webpage of my favourite not-for-profit organization Samarpan Foundation and donate whatever you deem fit towards the wonderful work they are doing to spread joy, peace and happiness through the world? 

Of Clouds and Shadows! Round the Year Quilt – Layout Option One

 

I have been trying out various options for the Block of the Month Quilt, Round the Year! I will show you one option in each of the next few posts and include patterns for sashings and borders. The next block, Block # 5, will be posted only on 15th October. In the first two weeks of October, you can catch up with pending blocks, set your circles in squares, ready the borders, sashing, binding etc! Or, if you want to `quilt as you go’ the first four blocks, perhaps you can start on that!

I shall be posting these so that you can decide which one you want to do. Of course, each of the 16 blocks will be different, but you get the general idea! In case you want the patterns for the blocks featured in this quilt picture above (or below), they are available for free, right here, on this blog! Just type “Round the Year’ in the searchbox, and the posts will pop up. I am trying to create a page where all the links will be available in one place, as soon as I can figure out how!

This is one option I really like. In this layout, the interplay of dark and light grey in the background brings alive the theme of dusk falling. The blocks are simply joined together and a thin 1.5″ dark grey border and binding frames the blocks, making it up to a comfortable 75″ square size. What would you call this layout? I am undecided between `Shadows’ and `Clouds’!

Here is how the Rainbow Quilt will look, in the same layout… A white and black combination ( instead of blue and grey) for the background would look stunning, but I would prefer that for a wall quilt rather than a bed quilt! I’ll give you a dekko at that in my next post!

 

If you come up with some options, we’d all love to see those, too! Meanwhile. I’ll get back to my design desk(top) for a few more layouts!

Super Easy Dahlia Quilt Block – The Jaya Paperless Method!

What if I told you there was a method for piecing the Dahlia quilt block that uses no paper piecing of any kind, just one simple template and some simple, good old strip piecing? No `y’ seams either? And, it is entirely machine stitched? So happy to introduce you to the paperless Jaya Technique!

For those of you wondering what the whole hullaballoo is about, here is a bit of history!

The Dahlia quilt block is arguably one of the most difficult quilt blocks to piece. The traditional block is either English paper pieced or hand pieced, machine piecing is not such a great option, as all edges are curved on each piece! Add to that several y-seams, and things get really, really complicated. As such, you will rarely come across a quilt with several small Dahlia blocks; it is usually one giant Dahlia covering the entire quilt.

Easy Dahlia Quilt Block technique
Traditional Dahlia Quilt Block – All edges of the `petals’ are curved!

With the popularity of foundation paper piecing, the block is simplified somewhat, without taking away its beauty. One edge of the ‘petals’ is straightened, and the block is pieced in arcs on the sewing machine. This what the arcs and the pieces look like!

The Dahlia Arc template with straight edges, facilitating foundation paper piecing
Easy Dahlia Quilt Block technique
The paper templates for English paper piecing

These arcs are then assembled to make up the block. I love paper piecing and browsing the net came across a method where foundation paper patterns are chain strip pieced.

I decided to try that out with the dahlia block and it worked!

Easy Dahlia Quilt Block technique
Chain strip piecing the Dahlia arc templates!

This made piecing the Dahlia templates a piece of cake. I shared this method with you when we constructed the first block Dahlia for my Block of the Month quilt, Dreamcatcher Round the Year.

And then, a fellow quilter who was doing the quilt came up with a truly, amazingly easy method for piecing the Dahlia quilt block! Those of you who have been following this blog may remember I had promised to share this brilliant technique with you – a method I am going to call the paperless Jaya Method after Jaya Parker, who came up with it!

This method uses no paper piecing of any kind, just a simple template and some simple, good old strip piecing! No y seams either and it is entirely machine stitched!

I’ll let Jaya take over and explain the method in her own words. Thus spake…er…wrote Jaya:

I did not plan on doing the BOM as I have several other sewing and quilting projects lined up. As I continued to see pics on the Desi Quilters page of many members trying out the dahlia block I became intrigued. Started reading up on Madhu Mathur’s blogs with detailed instructions. Madhu I love reading your write ups. Your personality definitely shines through. (Thank you, Jaya! So sweet of you!)
I have never done paper piecing and so far still haven’t . Once I saw pictures of the arcs being pieced I noted that the large pieces were essentially straight strips and wondered if I could just join straight strips first then cut out arcs and join. So here goes-
In the beginning I joined strips that were the width mentioned in the fabric requirement section.

Dahlia Piecing - Easy method!
Strip set #1 for Lotus

Once I had printed out the templates I realized the strips were too wide so I adjusted the widths by sewing additional seams on the back. 

I picked the lotus design envisioned by Madhu.

071814_1113_SomeDahliaF3.png The Dahlia pattern used to piece a `Lotus’



Based on the pattern I figured it would need 2 separate strip sets. The second strip set was made correctly, taking into account the measurement adjustments needed in the first!
Cut 8 arcs from each strip set. I pinned the template using 2 pins for cutting out the shape the removed paper before sewing.

Easy Dahlia quilt block piecing
Strip Set #2 ready for cutting and template in place!
Easy Dahlia quilt block piecing
Strip Set #1 being cut…



Easy Dahlia quilt block piecing
Templates pinned on the arcs – ready for assembly

I used no letter codes for joining.

The right (fabric) side of the arcs

The two halves form a paisley like shape once assembled! Just eyeballed Madhu’s yin and yang and joined so that my blue triangles on the edge were making an arc and so also the white triangles on the inside edge. ( Some seam ripping was done initially to learn the correct placement )

I joined the arcs from outer edge to inner circle. Stitched very very slowly . I set my machine to its slowest speed. Coaxed the arcs and curves so the strip seams matched from one arc to the next. Opened out frequently while joining as the individual ‘petal’ seams curve down and just joining seam to seam may not open up on point.

Easy Dahlia quilt block
The paper removed and the arcs being assembled …slowly…

I seam ripped a few times to achieve this, though still not perfect . The lotus pattern was more forgiving as there were a lot of pink strips with identical fabric.

One half (yin?) ready!


Joined 8 arcs together alternating an arc from each strip set. Repeated to make 2 halves or paisleys or yin and yang that are basically identical .
Now for the center –
I made 2 halves of a pinwheel using 2 half square triangle (hsts) each ( ie make a total of 4 hsts)
I just joined 2 pieces of fabric squares  – I used a dark and light yellow fabric square (7 inch square each)to each other right sides inside. Stitched 1/4″ away from all 4 edges. Cut 2 diagonals in criss cross fashion on the square after sewing edges and voila …I had 4 hsts!  Joined in sets of 2.
I used a bowl that was slightly larger than the center circle template to cut out the semi circles.
Joined each semi circle to yin and yang.

Easy Dahlia quilt block
Jaya’s yin- yang or twin paisleys!


My semi circles were slightly larger than the template but this helped me even out my inner circle with my slightly uneven white triangles. These were not perfect as this was not paper pieced . I trimmed off the excess yellow fabric on the wrong of the  center after sewing.

Easy Dahlia quilt block
Jaya’s beautiful pink Lotus (Dahlia?)

Thank you, Jaya! We love your Lotus and we love your easy method Dahlia!

As I read an reread Jaya’s method, I realised that you can use as many strips as you like and the method would still work!  But the placement of the template is important. The seams have to be exactly parallel to the seam lines on the paper template.

I am working on a super template that will make all this less confusing. Actually, it is ready, but I need to write out the instructions. Till then, happy quilting!

You can buy the Pattern and Instructions for the Dahlia Block at MadsPatch, my online store!

Assemble the Card Trick Quilt Block – Step by Step

The pattern and piecing instructions for the Card Trick , the third of the blocks in my BOM quilt Round the Year were posted by me a few days ago.

Incidentally, there are 26 templates and  14o pieces in this block…just so that you can boast about it!

Assembly

1. First, lay out all the pieced templates using the master template as a guide.

Lay out the pieced templates using the master template as guide
Pieced templates arranged using the master template as a  guide

2. Assembling the Inner Circle

– Pin together each triangular ‘card’ to the corresponding wedge . If one makes a mistake and  joins wrong pieces together at this stage, the ‘trick’ will not work, so follow the master template strictly!

For accurate piecing, I find  the alignment markers and crosses on the printed templates very helpful.

'Vertical' pin pushed through marker before securing the templates
‘Vertical’ pin pushed through marker before securing the templates

All inner templates ready for pinning together
All inner templates ready for pinning together in pairs

Secured with pins...
Secured with pins…

3. Sew to join together, removing pins as you are a stitch or two away.

Fix the thread as you begin
Fix the thread as you begin

...pulling out the pins as you approach them
…pulling out the pins as you approach them

Chain piecing saves time and thread!
Chain piecing saves time and thread!

Remove extraneous paper – from the seams and pieces without alignment markers. When the seams are pressed flat,  some paper at the corners will go under the upcoming seam, and will be near impossible to remove later. Take care of that. Tweezers help, as well as the ripper.

Remove paper from seam ...
Remove paper from seam …

Paper torn off from seam corners, leaving alignment markers intact
Paper torn off from seam corners, leaving alignment markers intact

4. Referring to the master template, join  the segments in pairs, aligning on the markers with vertical pins pushed through. When securing with pins, I ensure that the head of the pin is either on my right ( since I am right handed) or towards me as the fabric goes under the needle. This makes it easy for me to pull out the pin slowly , without any fear of getting poked!

Refer to the master template ...
Refer to the master template …

5. Join segment AI to CK to form a quarter circle.

6. Join segment  EM to GO to form a quarter circle.

This is as good a time as any to flip over to the fabric side to check if  you have got everything in order!  The little coloured piece on the wedge should be the same colour as the adjoining segment on its left.

7. Join the 2 quarters  at edges C and E to make the top half circle.

Top half of circle is ready!
Top half of circle is ready!

8. Join segment BJ to DL to form a quarter circle, and finally

9. Join FN to HP to form the last of the quarter circles.

10. Join these two quarter circles along edges D and F and the other half of the circle is done!

11. Now to assemble the arcs. There are only 6 arcs, so they will be joined in threes for the top and bottom halves.

QRS makes one half of the ring, and TUV makes the other, moving anti clockwise as you look at the printed  side.

Joining the arcs
Joining the arcs

12. Finally, the final step for assembling the circle! Joining the ring half to the circle half. Do not spare the pins at this stage! I put pins on every seam joint and on some alignment markers too!

Pin copiously!
Pin copiously!

Ready to stitch
Ready  to stitch

13. I find it cumbersome to stitch a curved seam with the paper attached !

It is cumbersome to stitch a curved seam with the paper attached
It is cumbersome to stitch a curved seam with the paper attached

Knowing my arc is securely pinned and correctly aligned to the circle, I can afford to tear away  bits of paper on the seam. I also have a 1/4″ stitch on my Hasina, my HQV machine so I am assured of an accurate seam!

You will notice I do not remove all the paper, as I will need the alignment markers on the outer edge of the arc when I join this to the background.

Paper removed from under the seam area eases sewing
Paper removed from under the seam area eases sewing

Here is one half of my circle assembled, the other half awaits its turn!

Time to gloat!
Time to gloat!

14.  Once both the half circles are ready, we can move to the background. Using the template W ( made of 2 paper  pieces glued together) we had cut 4 fabric pieces a bit larger on the long straight edges .  We join these in pairs, W to X and Y to Z.

15. Join one half of the circle to WX and the other to YZ.

16. Join the two block halves together to form the full square block, and trim it down to 1

An alternative method for joining the circle to the background is to join the two halves of the circle and appliqué the circle on to a background square, using your favourite method. If using this method, cut your square about an inch larger and trim to size after appliqueing.

There is also a freezer paper method for joining a circle to a background square, for which  several free tutorials are available online.

I hope you will enjoy making this block which comes up so magically!  Do share a picture of your completed block on my facebook page, the like button is on the side bar to the right!

You can BUY THE PATTERN HERE! Dusk Version Card Trick Block

Happy quilting, till I post the rainbow version of this block some time next week.

You can buy the pattern for the Rainbow Version of the Card-Trick Block here.

Card Trick Block – Instructions File (My Bad!)

I have just corrected the link to the instructions for the Card Trick quilt block ( Block Three of the Block of the Month Quilt, Round the Year) posted earlier today in the main blogpost.

The correct links are also given here!

Card Trick Paper Piecing Template File

Card Trick Instructions File.

Sorry for the confusion!

082914_1606_2.png