Rainbow Dahlia – Block One of “Dreamcatcher Round the Year” Block of the Month Quilt

This traditional “DAHLIA” block is the first in the Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt. We use bright/ neon solids and a contemporary black and white print to give it a ‘modern’ twist!

 Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch.company.site and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

Block size: 18″ square with 15″ inset circle.  This block is paper foundation pieced before being assembled. We are chain piecing strips to construct the block.


Fabric Requirementgiven for strip piecing technique. You need more fabric if you wish to piece the block in the regular way.

Colour Code Quantity
Light Grey 1 2 strips 2.5” x 20”
Sky Blue/ Cobalt blue
2
2 strips 3.5” x 20”
2 strips 2.5” x 20”
Black and white  print (Shown dark grey in templates) 3 2 strips 2.5” x 20”
Black 4 1 strip 2” x 20”
White 5 1 strip 2” x 20”
8  bright colours across spectrum 6 to 13  Cut 3.5″ square diagonally. Retain 1 HST ( triangle) , putting aside other for use later.
Light Grey (for background square) 1 18.5” square or 10” x 25” strip*

            (* depending on method being used. See piecing instruction no. 8)

  1. Take print outs of the Template.pdf file at 100% size; also ensure printer settings are on portrait mode. You have the following templates:
  • 16 arc templates numbered A to P for piecing the outer circle (ring).
  • 2 templates Q and R for the inner circle
  • Template S in 2 pieces S1 and S2 for one quarter of the outside square ( not needed if you are using the 18.5″ square for the background.
  1. The Master template below shows how the paper pieced sub-blocks shall be assembled. I suggest you print this file for ready reference.

Piecing Instructions

Step by step Instructions for strip piecing, with photos can be accessed here.

  1. Piece arc templates A to H
  2. Piece arc templates I to P
  3. Piece the centre halves Q and R.
  4. Moving anti-clockwise from 3 o’clock, join the arcs in adjoining pairs as follows-
  5. H to P, A to I, B to J and so on
    Join HP to AI and BJ to CK. Next join HPAI to BJCK to get the top half of the flower
  6. Similarly, join adjoining pairs to get the bottom half of the flower DLEMFNGO
  7. Join the centre top Q to HPAIBJCK and similarly construct the lower half of the Dahlia.
  8. * For setting the circle in the square (I am skipping this step in my quilt for now, for I plan to set the circles on to the background fabric only once all of them are ready. )
  • If you prefer to appliqué the whole circle or prefer to join it as a whole by any other method, use the 18.5″ square kept aside for the background.
  • If you prefer piecing, use the following method
    • Glue together the two parts of template S along the marked edge.
    • Use the diagram below to cut 4 of these – S, T, U and V from the 10″ x 25″ background fabric.


  • Join S and T to make the top half and U and V to make the bottom half
  • Set the circle halves into the background fabric, aligning the markers (crosses and small lines) on the templates.
  • Join the halves to make the square block!

 Please note that the downloadable patterns with paper piecing templates and instruction files for the Dreamcatcher Round the Year quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch and will not be available for download for free from 15th November 2020 onwards.

You can buy the PATTERN (TEMPLATES and INSTRUCTIONS) from here – DAHLIA- Rainbow Dreamcatcher Round the Year

 

 

Dusk Dreamcatcher Round the Year Quilt : Fabric Requirement – Downloadable file

Dusk Round the Year

I had this horrible nightmare last night, where I had given the wrong fabric requirements for the “Round the Year” Block of the Month I am hosting! In the morning, I checked, but all seems to be okay, except the requirement for 36″  background fabric which I increased to 3.5 metres from the more conservative 3.25 metres.

I also saw a request on my blog for a downloadable file for the fabric requirement, which I think is a great idea.  As there are at least two `official’  colourways, to avoid confusion, I am calling the blue- orange -yellow version “Dusk Round the Year” !

I am so fascinated by the wonderful colours  that the setting sun paints across the skies – the brilliant oranges, golds and yellows – colours that can be rarely matched on canvas.   Some may claim that sunrises are equally beautiful, but being a late riser I am rarely up in time to appreciate those.   My quilt is, I hope, going to be evocative of  languid monsoon evenings – grey clouds looming while the blues, more brilliant than ever after the rains, struggle to make their presence felt  before the indigo darkness prevails!

Evening at the Pond Evening at the Pond

I do so ramble on, don’t I? So without much further ado, here is the Fabric Requirement -Round the Year – Dusk !

You will need Adobe Reader (available free online) on your laptop to be able to view this file.

For those of you planning to make the `Rainbow’ version of the quilt, I hope to be able to post the requirements by tomorrow.

Please note that the patterns and instruction files for the quilt blocks are being migrated to my store MadsPatch.company.site and will not be available for download here from 15th November 2020 onwards.

Perfect basic four-patch square quilt block every time!

The four- patch block is certainly versatile! I recently had the occasion to make several 9 square patch and 4 patch square blocks…
I saw and followed from YouTube an easy and quick method for the basic nine patch block and decided to adopt and adapt it for the four patch!

This method gives you perfect four- patches, points matched just so! and a pair each time! It is also great to use with pre-cut squares, such as charm squares or layer cakes.
So here we go!

Since I had several 4-patch blocks to make ( ready 2.5 ” square) so I started with two strips, one black and one white, which were 3.5″ wide. Remember, cut your strips just one inch wider than the size of the ready block.

If you want a single pair of 4 patch blocks 2.5″ square, begin with squares 3.5″…

Quick 4-square patch
Begin with strips 1′ wider than your ready block

2. Join the strips along the longer edges ( both sides!)

Join strips along both edges
1/4″ seam along both long edges

3. Cut the joined strips at 3.5″ intervals. ( size of ready block plus 1′)

Cut into squares - ready block size plus 1"
Cut into 3.5″ squares ( or ready plus 1″)

If you wanted a single pair of blocks, you would have this at the end of the first step! That is, you would have started with 2 squares of 3.5″ and sewed along opposite sides as above…
Similarly, if you were working with pre-cuts, this is where you would be after joining a pair of charm s or layer cakes along opposite sides.

4. Slice through each block as shown, parallel to the seams.

Cut each piece along centre, parallel to the seams
Cut each piece along centre, parallel to the seams

Here instead of measuring 1.75″ from the edge of the fabric, measure 1.5″ from the seam to find the centre!

5. Open and press towards the darker fabric! Or the light! (Just be consistent about which side you press them on) Or, press open your seams, if you like. (I don’t! 🙁 )

Seams pressed towards dark fabric
Seams pressed towards dark fabric

6. Place the pieces in pairs, right sides facing. Black on white and white on black!

Pair the pieces, right sides inside and opposite colours facing each other
Pair the pieces, right sides inside and opposite colours facing each other

7. Pile them, dark piece away from you, and seam towards the machine. This helps the seams of the top and bottom pieces `butt’ against each other, and you get a perfect corner!

Join the pairs as shown.

Stitch all the patches on one side, without cutting the thread! This is called chain-piecing
Stitch all the patches on one side, without cutting the thread!
Flip over, sew along opposite side! Chain stitching makes things move fast!
Flip over, sew along opposite side! Chain piecing makes things move fast!

8. Now snip the chain links to separate the pieces, and we are almost there!

Cut along the centre line of each piece
Cut along the centre line of each piece

9. Abacadabra! We are there!

Open to reveal perfect four patch blocks!
Open to reveal perfect four patch blocks!

Impossible for the blocks not to be perfect 🙂

You shall have two sets of blocks. With the seam on the right, one set shall have white on the top and the other shall have black on the top. This is unimportant, except the slight adjustments required when making larger blocks from these.

Two sets of blocks
Two sets of blocks

11. One little step more, my favourite! 🙂

Flip the block to the wrong side, and use your ripper to rip those few stitches in the centre. Finger press the seams in a whirl …this reduces bulk!

Whirl in the centre
Whirl in the centre

And here is your 4-patch

Done!
Done!

This method is particularly useful when you have several 4-patches to make as in a border. It prevents fabric from getting distorted along the longer edge and is great if you like working on minis!

Here are a few quilts where I have used 4-patch blocks!

Four patch border
Four patch border on a queen size quilt
Christmas Quilt for Brinda
4-patch on a miniature Quilt
Sixteen 4-patches were used to make this chessboard.
Sixteen 4-patches were used to make this chessboard.

And how many basic 4-patches in this work in progress?

How many 4-patches here?
How many 4-patches here?

Happy counting (and quilting)!

Dancing Square Mug Rugs

I saw this mug rug at http://nofightingnobiting.blogspot.in/2012/04/quilted-mug-rugs.html, while browsing the net for a little gift that could be made in a day!

I was not sure if I could understand the instructions given by Katherine. I knew there was another way of making this ‘dancing square’ block – joining all the quilt squares first, and cutting with a template. But I was not sure if I could get my pinwheel centres to match with that method!

I had also made a full size quilt about three years ago, using a stack and whack method very kindly shared with me by Cathey McClure. But I could not remember how that worked! Other than that it went stack, whack, stitch! And stack, whack, stitch again! L

So I used this (more roundabout?) method and surprise, surprise! my little quilt tops came up in no time at all!

I am giving the instructions for 4 mug rugs 8″ X8″ (not arbitrary – but because it works that way!). Through chain piecing, these can be cut and stitched up in an afternoon (other than the quilting).

You will need

Background squares (Blue- B) Twenty 4″ X4″

For the Pinwheel- Four Squares
each
of 4 contrasting coloured squares (yellow –Y, Pink –P, Red –R and Green G)

(For each little quilt you need – 5 B, 1Y, 1P, 1R, 1G)

For the backing – 9″ squares of background fabric (or any backing of your choice)X 4

Binding – Four strips 9″X 2″ of each of the pinwheel colours.

8.5″ square of batting

I like to mark a light square with a pencil on each corner of the wrong side of my solid squares – so that i don’t have to strain my eyes later trying to decide which is the right side!

Making the Template

I make my template with graph paper. Only centimetre graph paper is available in India. So I used a print out of inch graph paper available for free download online.( Free Multi-color Graph Paper from http://incompetech.com/graphpaper/multicolor/)

Of course, you could draw the square on plain paper, but graph paper gives it the accuracy I like in a small quilt!

If you have template plastic, great! It is not available here. (For my full-size quilt I had used plastic sheet cut from a plastic folder and marked with a permanent marker. You can use that for your template). I find that the graph paper template I use here works equally well.

  1. On the graph paper, draw a 4″ square . From each corner mark a point ¾” to the left (or right) and join the diagonally opposite points.
  2. Quick way of checking if you have it right – the diagonals meet at the centre point (2″ in this case)
  3. Stick your graph paper square to a thin, stiff card sheet, and cut out the shape.

    Cut across one diagonal – this is your basic template.

    Marking and cutting the fabric

    1. Stack up the squares colourwise carefully, matching all edges – make sure the wrong side is up in ALL of them. ( Or you will end up with a few anti-clockwise blades, which you will have to set aside for another project! Ask me! ) The background squares can also be in stacks of 4.
    2. Place the template on the top square and cut the stack. Do this for all stacks. For the sake of convenience I am going to call these pieces Half Squares or HS.

    3. Now comes the part which appears tedious, but makes life much simpler! On each half square, draw the crossing diagonal by placing the template perpendicularly– but DO NOT CUT. You can see in the pic below how your half square will appear.

      (No way I would do this for a larger quilt. But quite doable in a small quiltJ)

      Put the pieces back in stacks colourwise. Makes it easier to chain stitch. Remember to keep the wrong side up in all the pieces!

      Making the Block

      (You can skip reading this part and go on to the next part – it is an explanation of the process, more as a reminder to myself how I worked it out…)

      This project is basically a nine patch.

      The centre square has 4 pieces – YPGR

      The corner squares have 3 pieces –

      1. ½ B piece
      2. ¼ background piece b
      3. ¼ coloured piece( 4 corners each different)

      The outer centre squares have –

      1 ½ background piece B

      2. ¼ coloured piece

      3 ¼ adjacent coloured piece

      We begin by deciding what colours would be adjacent to each other. I decided on this scheme.

      1. Begin from the centre. Join 1 pink HS to 1 adjacent green HS, matching the pencil marked diagonal of the two pieces carefully. Join 3 more Pink HS to 3 green HS.
      2. Similarly join 1 Red HS to 1 adjacent yellow HS. Make 3 more red-yellow squares.
      3. Now join 1 red HS to a green HS. Similarly make 1 more Red-Green Square.
      4. Now make 2 Pink Yellow squares.
      5. You are now left with two HS of each colour (total 8). Join these to the background BHS .

        You will have ( besides 32 background halfs – which will not be cut)

        4 RY squares

        4 PG squares

        2 RG squares

        2 YP squares

        2 BY squares

        2 BP squares

        2 BG squares

        2 BR squares

      6. This is what your squares will look like. Cut all these squares across the marked diagonal! Now you know why we marked the line. You could also stack them and cut across the diagonal – this was a small project – so I preferred to cut each individually.
      7. Press open the units, seams to one side. It does not matter which.

        Putting it together

        1. Centre Square. Put together the 4 coloured squares. Make 4 such units. (rg-yp )

        2. Corner Squares Take a br HS and join to a B-HS. Match the seam of the brHS to the diagonal of the BHS while joining.

        1. Similarly join all other double coloured HS to BHS. You shall have 4 sets of

        Bbg, Bbp, Bby, Bbr

      8. Outer Centre Squares. Join the remaining double-colourHS units to the backgroundHS. You shall have 4 sets of Bpg, Bpy,Bry, Brg.

        1. Now press these seams towards the background fabric.

        Squaring Up

        Personally, I find this the most tedious part. I trimmed the squares to 3″. The centres are already available where the seams meet – so it was really not so much of a problem.

        Positioning

        Position each of the 4 sets in 3 rows of 3 patches, and join. Be careful while joining them – I had to rip seams thrice, because I joined the `wrong’ edges!

        So here it comes together magically!

Only one thing remains before you quilt it. Flip it over – and set the seams at the pinwheel centres into whirls!

Just so…

Quilt as you like. I added a binding overlapping the ¼” seam allowance – hence my little quilts were 8″ each.

This is what I did on the reverse on one mat.

I’ve decided to do a different colour binding on each of the 4 little quilts.

Two of my reversible mug rugs are quilted and ready. I just echoed the pinwheel outer edge in the quilting. I also did an outline quilting on the pinwheel, but didn’t like it. You can still see where I ripped it!

My finished mug rugs.

You could, of course, join the four blocks with/ without a sashing, add a border and and make a runner.

Do let me know if you make these!

20120801-160402.jpg

RECYCLING – Convert a Couple of Old Favourite Silk Sarees to a pair of quilts!

Recycle 2 sarees to make a pair of coordinated quilts 60″ X 80″ or larger!

Often we have favourite silk sarees – which become unwearable over time – or get a tear or two. They cannot be converted to salwar kameezes either. Or may be you just have had enough of them, and do not wish to wear them any more!

What better way to continue to enjoy a pair of sarees than make it into a pair of quilt tops over an afternoon? J

Sarees are usually about 40- 44 inches wide and between 5 metres to 5.5 metres long (200- 220 inches). This includes a `pallu’ which may be any size – rarely more than 40 inches long. For the purpose of this tutorial, we shall take 2 sarees, which are

40 inches wide

200 inches long

40 inch pallu

Remember, you have a lot of flexibility while working on this, so do not worry if your saree measurements do not match with what I have taken! In this example I have taken sarees with borders – we can also use sarees without borders.

Take the two sarees and closely examine them for any fraying, wear and tear and cuts. Pin a small piece of paper or stick a `read me’ notepaper near the damaged portion. You can always work around it!

Saree A                                                                               Saree B

Step 1. Cut the pallus and place aside. We may need to use them later, especially if the saree is damaged.

Step 2

Cut the main saree lengths into two along the width as shown.

You shall end up with 4 lengths approximately 80 inches long.

A1                                               B1                                     Pallus A, B

A2                                                         B2

If the saree is damaged, work around to get an 80″ undamaged length (B1 in the illustration below)


B1

Step 3

Now comes the fun part!

  • Cut A1 (Saree A) lengthwise along the centre – vertically – into two equal lengths.
  • From B1 (Saree B) cut strips (including border) approximately 8-10″ wide from either side

A.1.1             A.1.2                      B.1.2         B1.1          B1.3


Step 4:
Join them so! You shall have two quilt tops approximately 60X 80 inches in size


A1.1        B 1         A1.2                B1.2      A2     B1.3

Step 5

You have several options to lengthen the quilt, if you wish to – add the pallu, or undamaged portion of border from Saree B! Use your imagination to make your own, unique pattern J

You could also incorporate the pallu in the centre, and stitch around it! And make matching cushion covers from the left over fabric.

But remember, when working with old sarees, and silk ones at that, the fewer seams you have the better! Also, the golden rule about a quarter inch seam is not valid while working with silks. You may want to take a half inch seam, or even a` French seam’ .

Use an old cotton saree to make the backing. Quilt it yourself if you will – or `bag’ it (stitch three sides of the top to the backing) and give it to the razai walla to fill and quilt!

Here are my pair of quilts. Since the sarees were badly damaged, I had to incorporate the pallu. I used an old cotton saree to back one of the quilts and had them filled and quilted in the market.